|
1996 Ford Aerostar Chugging - Engine
Question: The CHECK ENGINE light has been on for a while now. Three of the codes point to the emission system, and one to a misfire in cylinder four. After the engine gets warm, and I slow down or stop, when I accelerate the van seems to shudder and vibrate and seems to have no power - I guess you could say the engine is chugging. If I try to accelerate too quickly, the vibration gets worse and the CHECK ENGINE light flashes on and off. I can accelerate slowly and once I get above 50 mph, the van runs fine. I don't know if I have an engine air problem, fuel problem, transmission problem, or what. I have replaced the IDLE AIR CONTROL VVE and the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR since on my previous 1995 Aerostar those parts were often a problem. Any ideas? I can't afford to take it to a Ford dealer, my favorite garage can't fit me in until next week, and they don't do transmissions, so I'm not sure which shop to take it to. Thanks.
Here's How To Get Guaranteed Solutions In Minutes
|
|
Technican: Have you done a basic tunue-up? When the check engine light flashes it's because of a severe misfire that can damage the catalyst.
What is very important is to give me the actual trouble code designations. Examples are 'P0300, P0420, etc. If you don't have the codes available- Autozone or Advance Auto will pull the codes free of charge. Please make certain to give me the trouble code numbers and NOT the autoparts stores description of the problem (this can be confusing and unfortunately they [sometimes] misinterpret the problem)."
Owner: More info... The engine is a 4.0L. The four codes pulled were P0141, P0304, P0401, and P1443. I did have a tune-up within the last year, although I don't mind doing it again soon. I await your reply.
Thanks.
Technican: If possible, while it is dark out-
1. Let the engine warm
2. Block the wheels
3. With engine idling look for any misfiring between the plugs and coil. It'll be easy to see in the dark.
4. If you don't notice anything, with the wheels still blocked and parking brake applied, have an assistant place the trans in drive and apply slight throttle. The idea is to recreate the misfire and see if you can see (IE) arcing plug wires, etc.
Don't attempt this if it can't be done safely. A safer alternative is to spray the coil, plug wires, etc with a salt water solution. Give them a fair misting at idle and see if this creates a misfire.
It's tough to predict with certainty how you vehicle will act with so many codes appearing. It may be worth disconnecting the battery cable (and press the brake to deplete capacitors), this will clear the codes. Does it run better for a while? Once the engine light reappears see what code have come back (it's tough to deal with numerous codes at once).
Our first round with this will be identifying between a computer, ignition, or mechanical problem. I wasn't suspecting so many codes (you precis of the codes was good).
Owner: I have not had a chance to do the first things you said. I did disconnect the battery, and when the check engine light came back on, I had one less code. I still have P0141, P0304, and P1443. Perhaps the MAFS fixed P0401. What is odd, is that the problem is intermittent. Most of the time it happens after the engine warms up and I have slowed down or stopped. This afternoon, when I left the house to go to Auto Zone to pull the codes, it started almost right away and I wasn't sure I would even get there. I just drove slow and it got better but not great. Saturday night and Sunday morning driving to and from work, it never happened at all. I just don't understand. I'll wait to hear your reply and then I guess I'll take it to my garage as I do have an appointment later this week. I appreciate all your help and will ok the payment after your next reply whatever it is. Thanks so much for your help.
Susan
Technican: If you have an appointment to go to the shop it would be best if you didn't try anything else. Some of the tests, etc can set troublecodes that be midlead your mechanic. Also it's important that your car is driven (usually 40-60 miles) after the trouble codes have been cleared so the computer (acually a PCM) can run it's test. If not, when the shop hooks up their scanner they will get 'Not Ready' on some parameters- this will likely delay proper diagnosis.
If it's still your intention to take the vehicle to the shop (which I recommend at this point), please don't close the question. I will stick with you through the repair and advise you if the shops diagnosis is plausible.
Owner: Wow, thanks. I will let you know what they say. My appointment has been pushed off until a week from today. How do I update you? Also, if I release payment does that close the question? I was thinking of just having them change plug and wires regardless and see what that does. Does P0141 indicate the Oxygen sensor should be replaced? Should I not try to replace the PCV and the O2 sensor before next week? Why do you think the problem is here one day and gone the next? With all these questions, I think I should increase the payment :-). I know how hard it is to diagnose from a distance. Susan.
Technican: Unless the O2 sensor wires are shorting you should not notice such a drastic change in performance.
Here one day and gone tomorrow- that is the nature of tough problems.
Yes, if you release payment the question closes. So please don't ;)
I will do further research on your problem and see if I can piece all the codes together. I'll give it my best. Here's How To Get Guaranteed Solutions In Minutes
|
|
|
