Ford Escort Car Answers
I have a 1995 Ford Escort with a "Check Coolant" light issue. The light has just recently started remaining illuminated at all times. A visit to a quick lube revealed that the radiator wasn't low and there are no coolant leaks. What could cause this? Thanks.I want to know if I need a new engine if my car does not start up. Could it be another problem? If I need an engine how much should I pay for an used one or a new one. Thanks for your help!no cold air - a/C clutch not working when ac turned on.feron is ok.jumped the low pressure switch still didnt turned on.There is voltage @compressor, but it still wont work .IF voltage is applied directly to compressor the clutch works.fuse is ok.There is no a/c relay in this car.connectors and wiring is ok.could this be electrical need help.I think I may need a starter but I do not know for sure and I was gonna try to take it off to get it tested but I cannot find it on the carWith ignition on - no relay noise for fuel system. Just before fuel pump - no fuel comes out of the line when cranking. What next? The problem has progressed from hard to start - had to jump to start so replaced battery. No, no relay noise when turn key on and no start - no fuel to filter.1989 ford escort. no start, no spark or fuel but fuel is getting up through the filter but will not come out injector. checked timeing belt, coil, tfi module, and stator all good. do these have a power relay that controls spark and fuel?where is the temperature sending unit on my car? I need to check it since my temperature guage dos'nt work."Have changed the fuel filter to no avail. New spark plugs and new ignition wires to no avail. This car is a stickshift 5-speed. An intentionally exagerated description of the performance: It's similar to when a stickshift car goes too slow in too high a gear and finally bucks.--Except this feeling occurs randomly at street speeds. I do exagerate, but for short instants the forward motion of the car feels like it's provided by rhythmic bumping from behind; the feeling smooths out only by getting the RPM's well up. My guess has to be that it's missing. But there's no audible sound to assure me it's missing.i have a problem where i can start the car cold works fine then when it warms u it starts idling rough and then itl act like its runing out of gas tac start jumping down then back up then eventualy the car dies and wont start for a few mins i was told it was part of the ignition but i think it could be fuel tooHi, I have a '95 Escort station wagon (my son's car) with a 1.9L engine, manual tranny. About six months ago, out of the blue, the power just dropped off. It has gotten much worse since then, When driving it and you floor it (or at least accelerate), it feels like someone put their hand over the carb (old time term), or over the air cleaner inlet, or plugged off the exhaust pipe, just runs like a dog (no power). Going up even a small hill in town requires low gear. But it would probably do 100 on the interstate, if you had a long, flat road (maybe a slight downhill slope, ha). No missing, really, just no power. Tried a bottle of injector cleaner that didn't help at all. Well, finally I've started trying to diagnose the problem. No 'service engine' light ever came on. I have had this car to two GOOD mechanics in town, and now finally it has been at the Ford dealer's garage for over a week and they are tearing their hair out. Between all three, I'm sure they have checked everything at least twice. We have put in new plugs, wires (twice, sad to say), fuel pump, swapped ignition modules from a known good car. Checked exhaust back pressure, mass air flow sensor, compression, cyl. balance, etc, etc, etc. I'm running out of troubleshooting money.
Allow me to take up a little more space, if I could. There is a lot that I'm not sure of, as the mechanics themselves would say they checked everything (but give no detailed list), but here's to the best of my recollection. The car starts and idles fine, but while driving it sometimes runs poorly. (This is addition to the extreme lack of power). Also, the gas mileage is about half of what it was previously, down from about 35 mpg to about 20 mpg.
At that time, it had a miss also, so he put in new plugs and plug wires. That cured the miss, but he didn't have time for further analysis, except that he said it could be:
A) exhaust pluggage
B) dirty injector. (wanted to run a complete injector flush deal, whatever that was)
C) said that he cleaned and (recharged or something) the MAF sensor
D) nothing showed up on his big computer, but he did say that the plugs were badly burnt, like it had been running lean for some time.
Mechanic #2 had it for a few days and checked a bunch of stuff, then checked the fuel pump pressure and said it was bad. We brought the car home and put in a new fuel pump from Napa. Still ran the same. Just had a new fuel filter recently, so didn't change it again. We took it back to him (he rechecked the pressure and said it was still low pressure), he found out that there was a bad Schrader valve in that test connection, replaced it, and pressure was ok, so probably the old fuel pump was ok, too. Left it there and he checked the following:
A) put it on his smaller computer (scan tool?) and said the ignition all looked fine.
B) said the exhaust pressure seemed fine at about 1# backpressure when they revved it up.
C) not sure if he checked the MAF sensor
D) checked the timing belt and timing
E) said he checked everything else, but don't have a complete list.
F) said a dirty injector will usually cause a miss, so didn't go further
G) said it could possibly be a bad ignition module, but didn't want to just replace it, as for the expense and it did check out ok on his machine.
Mechanics #3 (Ford Dealer) Also, kind of hard to say L of what they checked, as they sure don't say much, but I do know that they checked the following:
They did put on new plug wires (again) and:
A) fuel pressure check = ok
B) ran injector test = ok
C) spark duration relative compression test = all ok
D) exhaust back pressure = ok
E) regapped plugs = ok
F) install new spark plug wires = ok
G) test coil pack = ok
H) test ignition module = ok
Costs so far:
Mechanic #1 $0
Mechanic #2 $ 0
Ford dealer $ 384
Fuel pump $ 85 - we installed
Grand Total $ 469 (so far)
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, still runs as bad or worse than before.
Escort Update 01-16-04
I also have a 95 Escort of my own that my son was using while the mechanics were working on his. I got his Escort back from mechanic #1, who really didnt have a lot of time to work on it for very long. My son came home this weekend and we started swapping and checking parts. We checked the following:
1. Timing belt WAS checked out previously by mechanic #2.
2. Had the catalytic converter and exhaust checked at Midas for back pressure, etc., and they said all is fine.
3. Hook up vacuum gauge. 15-16 vacuum at idle (same as my good-running Escort). We are at nearly 5000 feet above sea level. Unhooked L vacuum line from central manifold (vacuum distributor) and plug lines. Vacuum stayed about the same and engine ran the same or worse (normal, Id say, for having some items not connected)
4. Checked EGR with vacuum pump tester -seems to work fine. Kills motor right away when vacuum is applied, returns to normal when vacuum removed.
5. Swap out PCM (power train control module) no change
6. Ran with MAP sensor disconnected no change (mechanic #1 had checked it previously and said it was ok).
7. Pulled connection from ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor and test drive. IMMEDIATELY HAD FULL POWER RESTORED, but only for about a minute or two of driving and then resorted to its old self. Hooked it back up and poor performance continued. Unhooked again and same FULL POWER for a few minutes.
8. Swap out ECT sensor no change
9. Ran with O2 sensor disconnected no change
10. Swap out O2 sensor no change
Nearly back to square one, except that we can maybe rule out a few things.
By pulling the ECT connection, we feel that we gave it a rich mixture and caused the excellent running for a minute or two, but what is causing the lean mixture is still a mystery to me.
Retested EGR valve seems to work fine
Tested the compression, here are the results (psi): 1) 177 2) 180 3) 177 4) 187
EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid tested out fine
We had already swapped the Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) from a known good one
Swapped the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and ignition module from a known good car
We already swapped the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor from a known good car and the good car still runs fine and the trouble car still does not run fine.
Also swapped ignition modules with my good Escort.
Boy, if you DO read through all of this, you really do want to help.
Thanks a bunch,
Allen BalekThe check engine light comes on and off....and the idle is irregular from time to time. I was thinking maybe the O2 sensor, what do you think?this car has been running fine for my daughter, then all of a sudden while at a stop sign she heard 2 clicks then her car died. It won't start anymore. it cranks but won't start, as if there's no gas getting to the engine. all the spark plugs fire, and we also tried putting gas directly in the engine, but still won't startJust relpaced my fuel pump and I still get no fuel sentto the Throttle body Carb. I looked at the Hynes Manual and it mentions the Fuel pump relay switch. Any Ideas where this relay's location would be I know it looks like the horn relay.
Thanks for you help, DarioMy car is smelling coolant, and I found coolant in the floor of the car, a warning ligth of coolant is on, and i can't found were the problem are.hi, i`m experiencing poor idling, acceleration and extremely poor gas mileage.this escort has only 62, 000 on it, and has recently had the timing belt, water pump, o2 sensor, dpfe sensor, egr valve, and both evap related solenoid/sensors replaced, as well as a number of vacuum hoses.the car used to get roughly 400 miles to a tankful, now almost half of that and it idles at 1100-1200 rpms hot or cold whereas it only idled at about 1000 rpms when cold and would always idle at 500 rpms at operating temp.i only recently replaced the evap related parts due to a mil p0443 code which after replacing them and said vacuum hoses has cleared the codes.currently no mil on dash.could this be a possible throttle position sensor malfunction?i should also note that i also retieved codes p0401.and p0301 the latter being a ignition wire rubbing on the manifold which i`ve since addresed.all these codes appeared at the same time-don`t know if that has any bearing on all this, but prior to all this the car basically ran great!any thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.thanks, nathen.i RAN OUT OF GAS. i HAVE REFILLED THE TANK BUT NOW IT WILL NOT START, JUST KEEPS CRANKING AND SOUNDS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING ANY GAS.THERE IS A LITTLE LIGHT THAT COMES ON AND SAYS FUEL LOCKOUT..WHAT DOES THAT MEAN AND HOW CAN I RECTERFY IT ??????????????I just bought a good looking Escort 1.9 L Escort Wagon with 124, 000 miles for next to nothing due to reoccurring Automatic Transmission problem that makes it totally unreliable and undrivable. Yesterday I started the car put it into reverse, "NOTHING", put it into drive "NOTHING". I checked the fluid, it was rather dark, and very low so I put a quart of Mercon in...HEY IT GOES! Worked perfectly, ran through all the gears, shifting as it should. Then I pulled away from a stop sign accelerating, and all of a sudden "NOTHING", the engine raced and no power to the wheels in any gear. It was like the drive shaft fell off. I put another quart of Mercon in and still "NOTHING". I towed it home, put it up on jack stands, went underneath the car and saw no recent leaks (from putting in 2 qts of fluid), no leaks from front axle seals, but a lot of leakage over time from the area where the transmission bolts to the engine. COULD THIS BE ONLY THE TORQUE CONVERTER??? If it is the torque converter, once I remove the transmission how do I remove the torque converter and put a new one on. Do I have to prefill the new torque converter? COULD IT BE THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF AND NOT THE TORQUE CONVERTER? WHAT COULD IT BE AND WHAT SHOULD I REPLACE?This problem only happens after the tank has been filled up: engine tends to die in idle state; when pushing the accelerator, engine often shows no response - or a delayed response; when turning into sharp right corner, the engine dies. The problem slowly disappears with sinking fuel level (over first 50 miles).I have no power to the steering colum. I found a burned plug on top of the steering colum and replaced it. when you turn the key it dosent feel right. like its turning but not engauaging anything. but my main concern is why no power. I have no blown fuses.what is the service procedure for front wheel bearing replacement on this vehicle? Are there special tools required aside from a hydraulic press? ThanksI have a 1.4 with manual choke. When it is cold it drives very unevenly, misfiring and jolting along the road with the choke out. I put the choke in asap, but the engine still runs badly until it is warm when it runs fine, very smooth and sweet. I have replaced the plugs, checked the HT leads and distributor cap, checked the airfilter and all linkages to the carb which all seem fine. Coil looks a bit rusty, but as it runs OK when warm, presume is OK.
Any ideas?I need to know where the vacuum line for the Maniflod Absolute Pressure sensor is supposed to be connected as it is missing from my car and i can't figure out where it was supposed to beThis car sometimes will not start when it is cold. It will start later. The engine cranks but does not fire. What might be causing this?Car will only run if you keep the ignition switch turned on. Soon as you release the ignition switch, car cuts off. Thanks alot!1994 ford escort. The ac compressor does not kick on when I turn on the ac. A simple refrigerant test show normal on the guage. I have not driven the car for the last 3 months, but I have started it regularly. What can I check before I take to repair shop?Last week, my 1994 Ford Escort would not start. It was driven about 15 miles, sat for an hour. The starter works, sounds like it's getting gas, but just won't turn over. We jiggled some wires and it started, took it to the mechanic, but he could not find any problem. It was fine until today. Same situation. Had it towed to the mechanic, and wouldn't you know, it started for him, so they couldn't find any obvious problem. The car is not dependable now. Can you help with this problem??I need to change bulb on automatic transmissions and stop light. Pleas help me to reach bulb.
My 98 Ford Escort has a peculiar odor of raw sewage and sometimes it misses gears that result in a jerking motion of the car. Any ideas of what the problem could be?hello, escort 1993, 1.8i, estate, UK model.
When turn the ignition i cant hear the fuel pump any more (which normaly makes a buzzing like noise).
I've been told to wait for a couple of seconds untill the noise is off and then turn the ignition to start the engine. Last time i turned the key but had to turn it off again twice because i had a phone call and ever since i got the problem.
The engine turns but it doesn't fire up (no fuel to the carb??)
Thank you for your time.I just need to know how to loosen the tension for the accesory belt so I can replace iti have a 1995 ford escort, 1.9. It cranks strong but no start. I pulled out the plug and no spark, and did not smell any gas. checked the fuel inertia switch it was not tripped. any suggestions?When arriving at 2500 rpm I get the charging system warning light. Below that rpm it seems to run fine but can only go so fast until it starts to drain the battery. I suspect it is the altenator and which one do I actually have on mine. There are a couple of different models out there.My E reg Escort 1.4 is having a problem with the rear light clusters. The brake lights, indicators and reverse lights are fine, but the normal tail lights won't work. The dash won't light either. I've checked the bulbs and the fuses and their all OK. When I turn on my lights at night, the headlights are fine but the rear lights don't even flicker - any ideas??Manual transmission. Engine stutters on acceleration. Problem is frequent but not constant. Revving up before releasing clutch sometimes alleviates it.Engine runs reasonably well but just will not stay idling. The RPM at idle goes from 700rmp then drops to nothing in seconds.i have a 1991 ford escort. The other day i was driving and it died. I ran out of gas. i put gas back in it. it wouldn't start. changed the fuel filter still didn't start. fuel pump doesn't seem to be out. please helpMakes a ticking noise coming from cylinders #3 and possibly #4, but only when engine has warmed up. Absolutely no noise when engine is cold. I replaced all 4 fuel injectors, replaced all 8 roller lifters, inspected rocker arms and moved them from original position to a new cylinder (eg.. rockers from #4 moved to #2 cylinder). Compression tests from cylinders are:
____#1 __#2 ___#3___#4
COLD 160 170 170 180
HOT 175 180 170 190
Engine often misses, sputters and jerks when engine has idled for a while and then driven. Once driving down the road, and the engine starts to cool down, it no longer sputters and misses, but still makes ticking noise. Rate of ticking seems to be related to the RPM of the engine.
After a lot of testing, inspection, and replacing parts, the engine STOPPED making the ticking noise for approximately 100 miles. Hot or cold, it didn't tick. Thinking it may have gone away, and it was possibly carbon build up, I Added some Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner at 1/2 tank and filled the tank with 91 octane at a local gas station. I started the engine and within 30 seconds, the tick came back and continues ticking like it did before. I have also replaced the spark plugs, wires, pcv valve with no effect.My headlights for low beam do not work, when I pull the switch only the parking lights are on. I replaced the headlight switch, I tested the headlights by connecting directly to the battery and they work. I opened the socket with the 2 wires red and black and I cleaned up the connection. It is not working. I did not find any fuse or relay or control module for this, or I do not know where they are. Can you help me?Will a windshield from a 1996 Mercury Tracer work to replace the windshield in my 1993 Ford Escort?Our 1992 Ford Escort dies when the car is driven in overdrive. It'll run fine for 2-4 minutes and then just quit. It usually takes 15-20 minutes before the car will start again. During that 15-20 minutes the car will turn over but just won't start. (If the car is run in regular drive, it runs loudly and uses more fuel but it doesn't quit/die.) We've had it into one of the local Ford dealers 3 times recently (they've replaced the timing belt, replaced the plugs and wires and flushed the transmission) but none of this has fixed the problem with the overdrive.I have a 1996 Escort wagon with a roof rack that has a leak above the windshield - the front of the headliner is getting wet - especially on the passenger's side. The seal looks good around the windshield. I've heard that it's acually the roof rack that is leaking and the water is running down to the front of the car. What's the fix for this? I can't see how to remove the roof rack to take a look - my repair book doesn't cover it. Thanks.I am experiencing trouble with keeping the car running more than 10 minutes after I first start it in the morning. The car will simply shut off. Then it will not start again until approximitly 10 to 20 minutes have gone by. I have already replaced the coil, ignition control module and I am running out of ideas. I don't have any cgheck engine lights and my Snap on scanner came up with no codes.
WaltEngine fails to deceleration immediately after acceleration. Continues to surge when shifting or coasting. Not a cable problem (throttle springs back appropriately).My Drivers side electric window is stuck open. I have checked the fuse and it is fine. I also know this because it is on the same fuse as passenger side window and that window is fine. Have tried WD40 which has worked in the past. Is there any way of manually closing the window wihtout having to resort to taking the car to a garage? Also any ideas on why it keeps getting stuck? I thought it was the cold but yesterday when it happened again was a lovely day.The seat belt shoulder strap cable on driver side has come off track. Need to remove panels in between front and rear door to repair or disengage sensor electrical clip behind keyhole opening. How do we remove panel to expose sensor and or pulley to work on it?91 escort GT 1.8 manual I have had this car for 4 months. When I first got it I replaced the EGO sensor(the wire was broke off), spark plugs, roter, cap and wires. It ran fine except when starting you had to crank it over more than normal. It did this before I bought the car. The car ran fine so I left it alone. 2 days ago, when I left for work I noticed It was pinging. As soon as you give it gas it pings, even at idle when you blip the throttle. At about 3000 rpm up it has no power.The idle is a little rough too. It also ran very hot on the highway. When I got home, I checked the timing(right on the money)-ran a compresion test(all with in 5pnds of 175pnds and no leak down) and replaced fuel filter. I have a fuel pressure gauge But there is no schrader fitting and no rubber hose for a tee fitting. I grounded fuel pump on the data link and the pump is working. I also looked for vacumn leaks-Nothing. I pulled the spark plugs and they are white with tiny brown spots- Lean? I ran diagnostics, and it gave me a 02-No crankshaft pin sensor signal And 15-EGOS voltage stays below.55volts (lean). Since the sensor is in the distributer, I replaced it, cleared the codes and it still runs the same. I ran another diagnstic and have no trouble codes? At this point I don't know what to do next. Any information you could offer would be Great. Thank you for your time!The fan for the air conditioning is not working. I changed the fuse but that did not do it.Hi: I have a 1991 Ford Escort, 1.9L engine, o/d auto transmission, with numerous problems.
When starting in cold weather, engine chugs bad, and black debree comes outs of the exhaust. Engine will die after a few momemts if accelerator is not used to keep it running. Once engine has warmed, it runs. However, when very cold outside, it seems that the engine does not fully warm up, the fast idle does not come off until engine is shut off and let stand for a few minutes, then idles at proper speed. At this point I often have fluctuating rpms (no matter when the season)when at stop signs/lights with some surging involved.
On to the transmission. It shifts very harshly. Mostly from low to second, however all the shift levels shift harshly. Sometimes even down shift is harsh.
So far I have replaced the thermostat, o2 sensor, egr valve and both senors/controllers, head and intake gaskets, timimg belt and gears. I have looked for a MAP sensor, but can't find one. I replaced the transmissiom fluid, seals, and screen. It does not have a normal shift modulator, but is there an electronic one tied into the computer?a friend is trying to remove a heater core from inside the dash and he can't seem to work it loose. Is there any tricks to this?I turn off the engine, remove the key, and the fan motor continues to run. I disconnected the battery to shut it off. strange... Happened first time today.I need to know the location of the fuel filterI have a '98 Escort Wagon. About four years ago, the a/c failed, and I went about a year before having anyone look at it (I live in Ontario, and can manage OK without it). Eventually, a mechanic told me that a major control module was faulty, and it would be about $300 to replace it. I didn't bother. But last year, the a/c suddenly came on, and blew nice cool air for about an hour, until I shut the car off. Since then, it hasn't worked again. I'm wondering if it's something relatively simple like a dirty master relay contact or connector. Can you tell me where to find the a/c master relay?when my old battery failed to charge, i used my portable buster to start the engine. at the time i connected the cables to the battery, the battery exploded (i was lucky i did not get burned by the acid). now i bought a new battery but i find that the car is dead. i mean dead. where should i look to find the problem.
This 1.9 liter engine climes to 3/4 or better on the temp gauge. I have changed the gauge sensor, ECT, flushed and visually inspected the radiator, cleaned debris from between condenser and radiator, changed thermostat (twice!) and checked AllData. They mention a cooling fan control switch that feeds the PCM (engine f/i computer) I have checked the relays and substituted known good relays. What am I missing??? Where is the fan control switch located? Darned if I can find it! Have one coming from Ford but... not sure it they knew what they were ordering. Seemed to be a new guy.
Here's the odd part... turn on the A/C (fan comes on to keep air flow across the condenser) and no problem with overheating.
Thanks for help,
Ken CHow do I reduce the idle speed om my 1993 Escort?Where is the thermostat locatedThe car stalls when started for a few seconds. It idles fine for those few seconds then idles low & dies. while driving it starts chugging but stays running. As soon as the gas is taken off & brakes are applied the car dies but always starts right back up. I have changed the air filter, the oil (&filter), the gas & put injector cleaner twice. I am wondering if it is the fuel filter.1998 Ford Escort w/90k miles. Service Engine Soon light on. Diagnostic code P1131. Is it possible to determine the meaning of this code before taking it in for repair?This happens about once a week, no pattern. The brakes are applied there is no braking for 2-3 seconds then the brakes grab and stop suddenly.This noise seems to be comming from the valvetrain, I took the valve cover off, pulled the rockers - checked trunions and rockers for wear and cracks, no problems found. Pulled the lifters, checked for wear and "flat" spots on the rollers. Nothing seemed bad. None of the valve springs were broken. But under a no load condition (car sitting in park) or going into passing gear it makes a terrible clatter/rattle that seems to be comming from the top end mostly between #3 and #4. It's getting progressively worse and I can't seem to figure out what it could be. The car runs perfectly fine except for this problem and I don't want it to get any worse. Any ideas on what could cause this noise without any broken or worn parts?car hesitates seems like it will not rev up when fuel feed is depressed rapidly but if you do it slowley it revs ok it also has blo by oil in air filter, we already changed pc valve but i do not know what else would effect the vacume system, the car has 76, 000 miles and the check engine light stays on constantly, my email is