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1995 Ford Escort Hesitating - General
Question: Hi, I have a '95 Escort station wagon (my son's car) with a 1.9L engine, manual tranny. About six months ago, out of the blue, the power just dropped off. It has gotten much worse since then, When driving it and you floor it (or at least accelerate), it feels like someone put their hand over the carb (old time term), or over the air cleaner inlet, or plugged off the exhaust pipe, just runs like a dog (no power). Going up even a small hill in town requires low gear. But it would probably do 100 on the interstate, if you had a long, flat road (maybe a slight downhill slope, ha). No missing, really, just no power. Tried a bottle of injector cleaner that didn't help at all. Well, finally I've started trying to diagnose the problem. No 'service engine' light ever came on. I have had this car to two GOOD mechanics in town, and now finally it has been at the Ford dealer's garage for over a week and they are tearing their hair out. Between all three, I'm sure they have checked everything at least twice. We have put in new plugs, wires (twice, sad to say), fuel pump, swapped ignition modules from a known good car. Checked exhaust back pressure, mass air flow sensor, compression, cyl. balance, etc, etc, etc. I'm running out of troubleshooting money.
Allow me to take up a little more space, if I could. There is a lot that I'm not sure of, as the mechanics themselves would say they checked everything (but give no detailed list), but here's to the best of my recollection. The car starts and idles fine, but while driving it sometimes runs poorly. (This is addition to the extreme lack of power). Also, the gas mileage is about half of what it was previously, down from about 35 mpg to about 20 mpg.
Mechanic #1
At that time, it had a miss also, so he put in new plugs and plug wires. That cured the miss, but he didn't have time for further analysis, except that he said it could be:
A) exhaust pluggage
B) dirty injector. (wanted to run a complete injector flush deal, whatever that was)
C) said that he cleaned and (recharged or something) the MAF sensor
D) nothing showed up on his big computer, but he did say that the plugs were badly burnt, like it had been running lean for some time.
Mechanic #2 had it for a few days and checked a bunch of stuff, then checked the fuel pump pressure and said it was bad. We brought the car home and put in a new fuel pump from Napa. Still ran the same. Just had a new fuel filter recently, so didn't change it again. We took it back to him (he rechecked the pressure and said it was still low pressure), he found out that there was a bad Schrader valve in that test connection, replaced it, and pressure was ok, so probably the old fuel pump was ok, too. Left it there and he checked the following:
A) put it on his smaller computer (scan tool?) and said the ignition all looked fine.
B) said the exhaust pressure seemed fine at about 1# backpressure when they revved it up.
C) not sure if he checked the MAF sensor
D) checked the timing belt and timing
E) said he checked everything else, but don't have a complete list.
F) said a dirty injector will usually cause a miss, so didn't go further
G) said it could possibly be a bad ignition module, but didn't want to just replace it, as for the expense and it did check out ok on his machine.
Mechanics #3 (Ford Dealer) Also, kind of hard to say L of what they checked, as they sure don't say much, but I do know that they checked the following:
They did put on new plug wires (again) and:
A) fuel pressure check = ok
B) ran injector test = ok
C) spark duration relative compression test = all ok
D) exhaust back pressure = ok
E) regapped plugs = ok
F) install new spark plug wires = ok
G) test coil pack = ok
H) test ignition module = ok
Costs so far:
Mechanic #1 $0
Mechanic #2 $ 0
Ford dealer $ 384
Fuel pump $ 85 - we installed
Grand Total $ 469 (so far)
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, still runs as bad or worse than before.
Escort Update 01-16-04
I also have a ’95 Escort of my own that my son was using while the mechanics were working on his. I got his Escort back from mechanic #1, who really didn’t have a lot of time to work on it for very long. My son came home this weekend and we started swapping and checking parts. We checked the following:
1. Timing belt WAS checked out previously by mechanic #2.
2. Had the catalytic converter and exhaust checked at Midas for back pressure, etc., and they said all is fine.
3. Hook up vacuum gauge. 15-16” vacuum at idle (same as my good-running Escort). We are at nearly 5000 feet above sea level. Unhooked L vacuum line from central manifold (vacuum distributor) and plug lines. Vacuum stayed about the same and engine ran the same or worse (normal, I’d say, for having some items not connected)
4. Checked EGR with vacuum pump tester -seems to work fine. Kills motor right away when vacuum is applied, returns to normal when vacuum removed.
5. Swap out PCM (power train control module) – no change
6. Ran with MAP sensor disconnected – no change (mechanic #1 had checked it previously and said it was ok).
7. Pulled connection from ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor and test drive. IMMEDIATELY HAD FULL POWER RESTORED, but only for about a minute or two of driving and then resorted to it’s old self. Hooked it back up and poor performance continued. Unhooked again and same FULL POWER for a few minutes.
8. Swap out ECT sensor – no change
9. Ran with O2 sensor disconnected – no change
10. Swap out O2 sensor – no change
Nearly back to square one, except that we can maybe rule out a few things.
By pulling the ECT connection, we feel that we gave it a rich mixture and caused the excellent running for a minute or two, but what is causing the lean mixture is still a mystery to me.
Update 1-23-04
Retested EGR valve – seems to work fine
Tested the compression, here are the results (psi): 1) 177 2) 180 3) 177 4) 187
EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid tested out fine
We had already swapped the Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) from a known good one
Swapped the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and ignition module from a known good car
We already swapped the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor from a known good car and the good car still runs fine and the trouble car still does not run fine.
Also swapped ignition modules with my good Escort.
Boy, if you DO read through all of this, you really do want to help.
Thanks a bunch,
Allen Balek
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Technican: Hello, Have you tried swapping the ECM? Have you opened the computer for a look at the condition of the circuit board? Does it show a dark spot from a part having burned on the board? Does it smell like a burn has occurred? (computer) Why in the world did you let Ford replace good plug wires? (curiosity)
Try OHM checking the wire from the ECT to the computer. Should read no more than .5 OHM. Ensure ground wire connections are clean and tight check to see if the engine is grounded to the body and the battery is grounded to the engine and to the body.
Have you ran the engine with the catalytic converter disconnected to see if power increases? (Not likely or the disconnecting of the ETC would have no effect)
Owner: Thanks,
Today we are doing more testing and my son has taken it out for a highway test.
Have you tried swapping the ECM?
Yes, we have swapped out TWO PCM'S (Ford's term). (not shouting, just for separation from your answers) I HAVE AN IDENTIC ESCORT, EXCEPT AUTOMATIC TRANNY, THAT WE ARE SWAPPING PARTS WITH. HIS COMPUTER WORKED FINE IN MINE EXCEPT FOR SHIFTING. WE SO PICKED UP ONE FROM A MANU TRANNY UNIT AT A WRECKING YARD AND DIDN'T HELP EITHER.
Why in the world did you let Ford replace good plug wires? (curiosity)
I figured that I could get it back if I argued with them long enough, but said "to heck with it", as I would just get ticked off and raise my blood pressure past the boiling point.
Try OHM checking the wire from the ECT to the computer. Should read no more than .5 OHM. Ensure ground wire connections are clean and tight check to see if the engine is grounded to the body and the battery is grounded to the engine and to the body.
WE WILL DO THIS WHEN HE GETS BACK.
Have you ran the engine with the catalytic converter disconnected to see if power increases?
YES, WE DISCONNECTED THE EXHAUST PIPE AT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND RAN IT THAT WAY---NO CHANGE.
Technican: Maybe I can get a suggestion from the Mitchell 1 Data Base by tomorrow.
This is a tough one for long distance trial and error. I can't be sure I'll earn an "atta-boy" here but I'll give it a shot.
Owner: ,
THERE ARE TWO WIRES COMING FROM THE ECT (ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE) SENSOR. HOW SHOULD I CHECK THEM? WITH THE KEY ON? KEY OFF? MOTOR RUNNING? WHICH WIRE? EITHER?
Technican: Okay, I've got to get a schematic for your PCM to advise you color, wire, etc. I'll be back as soon as I find one from Mitchell 1, but that will be tomorrow.
OHM testing is always done with no power on and the wire disconnected at both ends. If not done in this manner the meter or the computer will be damaged.
Do you have a shop manual for this car? Do you have a FAX number I may send data to you?
Owner: OHM testing is always done with no power on and the wire disconnected at both ends. If not done in this manner the meter or the computer will be damaged.
DON'T QUITE FOLLOW YOU ON THIS ONE. IF I PULL THE 2-WIRE PLUG FROM THE ECT, AND DISCONNECT THE HARNESS FROM THE COMPUTER, WE ARE TESTING THE WIRE. SORRY FOR MY STUPIDITY.
Do you have a shop manual for this car? Do you have a FAX number I may send data to you?
NO, WE DO NOT HAVE A SHOP MANU.
MY FAX IS: 775-244-4817
Technican: The OHM test I am suggesting will in fact check the run of the wire from end to end for continuity and also the amount of resistance in the circuit. Checking the full run of both of the wires that connect the ETC will ensure the value is properly given to the PCM when the car runs. Computer sensor inputs to the computer are 5VDC reference signals.
I'll FAX what I can find for your needs.
Owner: ,
A couple more things that probably weren't in the previous posts.
1)A few days back, we hooked up a small propane bottle (the Bernzamatic type for soldering) to a 1/4" hose and ran it into a vacuum port (on which we plugged the other end, actually it was just a line going to the heater/ac system to move dampers), drove the car, and while we were trying to accelerate we opened the bottle all the way. It changed nothing. We could tell we were getting at least some propane through as the bottle and tip got frosty.
2)Last night while testing, we are now noticing that the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter are both red hot. Only takes a few minutes of slow or fast driving to get this way. This wasn't happening before, as we unplugged/reconnected the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor at night many times before this.
3)Checked the grounds last night and found one ground wire from the engine to body that was broken. Repaired and cleaned both fastening ends, but no change. Also cleaned and inspected any other grounds.
4)Car actually continues to run worse as the days and changes go by, but, here's the kicker: the good car that is receiving the questionable parts (my green wagon), continues to run perfect.
---We are even thinking about replacing the camshaft sensor, but it's quite a job to r/r on BOTH cars just for a test. Also, we and at least one other mechanic have checked and rechecked it.
Owner: We kind of hit a little glitch today. My son is taking off to go back to his home and progress with the vehicle checks will slow down CONSIDERABLY. If you still want to continue, though, I will keep after it myself, but it might stretch out into weeks.
Technican: Can you receive 22 pages of data at the FAX number you sent me? Do I need a cover sheet?
The glowing exhaust manifold and cat/converter is surely due to extremely rich fuel mixture. Too much of this and the cat/converter will cause a restriction to exhaust flow. Lets hope that is not a concern. Although I have seen a Cadillac Northstar engine glow the manifold (not the converter) and it was running right and under heavy load. Some comparison, huh?
Owner: ,
I must have messed up with the reply to your fax question, because I don't see it here. Yes, you can try to fax it all. You don't need a cover page.
Technican: Okay, I haven't sent the FAX yet. I will now.
Technican: I realize that is alot of data to sift through so I'll give you the time you need to put it to task. You didn't have a shop manual so I wanted to be as generous with info as possible.
Just let me know where I can assist as I too have copies. Are your copies clean and clear?
Owner: ,
Yes, the copies came through loud and clear.
I do have just a Chilton manual for the 91-99 Esky, but that only goes into so much detail.
Like I mentioned previously, progress will slow down significantly, as my son is gone, and I will have to get some other stuff done before I head back to work on Thursday evening. I work 12 hour rotating shift at a coal fired electric generating plant. I am on my seven off, but when I go to work time won't be too plentiful.
I'll read through everything and try to test as good as I can.
This morning I warmed up the car outside (ten degrees below zero here this morning)and took it for a 5 block test run. Boy, my son was right when it said it's worse. You can hardly step on the gas anymore, you really have to ease into it to get it to go. My driveway has an incline and I had to floor it and slip the clutch 3 or 4 times to even make it in the garage. Of course, the cat/conv. was red hot. I think we are going to be seeing multiple problems now with that cat. I may have to disconnect the exhaust completely and just test (engine performance) in the driveway for awhile.
Thanks,
I'll be in touch once a day if possible,
Allen
Technican: All right, I'll assist you if I can. I'm concerned about the Cat/converter too. It may be fried.
Stay warm,
Owner: , I may have a day or two to work on it this coming week. The papers you sent are quite intimidating for a 'Saturday Mechanic'. You may have to walk me through some of it, if you are still interested. Actually the Chilton manual that I have does a good job of explaining sensor testing. If you think I should start testing certain wiring circuits, I'll give it a shot. I think it was just a little too much info all at once.
Is it possible for me to 'make' a millivolt signal generator out of a wrecking yard sensor, such as a TPS sensor or IAC motor? At this point in time, I think I need to pull the exhaust pipe loose from the motor, but I'd like to send a good 02 sensor signal to the computer at the same time, so I don't get a false sense of good/bad performance from the motor when no 02 signal is getting to the computer, as the 02 sensor would be disconnected also when I pull the pipe. I really would hate to ruin the CAT/02 sensor if I don't have to.
Technican: The computer is looking for a value from an oxygen sensor and I don't believe you can sub a TPS or IAC and get a value the computer would recognize and call for the correct fuel ratio. It may well just set a code because the O2 sensor value should be ever changing from rich to lean and back and forth.
Sort through the info, find the test regarding loss of power, and see how to proceed. I didn't mean to flood you with confusion. I wanted you to have info that future events may call for too.
Still willing to assist,
Owner: ,
YES, I AM SHOUTING. WE FIGURED IT OUT. I'LL ATTACH MY MESSAGE, THAT I SENT TO A FEW PEOPLE. LET ME KNOW HOW MUCH MONEY YOU NEED FOR YOUR HELP. I WILL SEND THE FULL AMOUNT IF YOU WANT.
HAPPY LEN
Hi guys, this is the message that I send to some of the internet car forums that I had been communicating with about this problem.
Allen
Update 2-4-04
It is with great joy and thanksgiving that I write this message.
1995 Escort Wagon 1.9L ‘Poor Performance’ PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It turned out that the vibration damper (which on most newer model cars is a cogged gear that has a special cutout slot with one tooth missing for the crankshaft position sensor to determine the position of the crankshaft) had a worn keyway (possibly from the attaching bolt being loose). When my son, Brad, pulled it off to recheck the timing belt (overhead cam), he noticed that it looked funny. He had me look at it and I thought ‘‘wow, this it’’. The damper keyway was worn about 3 widths of the half-moon key and you could see that it had been moving back and forth.
Put the damper from my good Escort on and finished putting the motor together (we had also removed the intake manifold to check that also), and fired it up. You could tell as soon as we started it, that it was running much better. Took it for a 20 mile drive and works awesome. Thanks to all for the help.
I will try to include pictures, but if I can’t you can email me at and I will send you the pics.
Technican: Congratulations!! I know the battle was frustrating for you. Great job Allen.
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