1997 Ford Explorer Malfunction - General

Question: I have 2 problems... I just bought the truck, so I do not know any of the recent history of the problems I am describing here... First one: The "Cruise Control" does not function at all. I have read a little about this, and can tell you that the horn functions properly. There seems to be no power at all to the cruise control. Additionally, I've checked all of the fuses, and they are fine (but not relays as I do not know which ones or have a way / know how to test them). Any ideas...? The second: I have not been able to bet the "Keyless Entry Keypad (or Remote)" to work. The power locks work fine. There does not seem to be any other problems with anything else at all. I'm kind of at a loss as to where to begin, and whether there is some commonality between these two systems. Any ideas...? Marty

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Technican: Hello, You state all the fuses are good. Do you see one specific to the cruise control and have you checked both terminals of the fuse for power with the key on? Did you know that you must turn the cruise system "On" with every new cycle of the ignition switch? I don't think you have a relay problem here. Check the brake switch for proper ajustment. Try gently lifting the brake pedal with your toe as you drive above 25mph and see if the cruise (Speed control) light comes on on the instruement panel. Look for any vacuum hose loose or split on the servo and the brake switches. Be sure the servo linkage is connected to the throttle. Are the batteries in the keyless entry remote good? Are they properly installed (polarity)? Do you have an owners manual to see how to program the remote? Please advise.

Owner: Hi, thanks for your reply. I have tried to turn on the cruise control numerous times, but have never been able to get any response from it, neither dash lights, not any attempt to activate. I have removed all dashboard fuses and used a tester on them, but could not find any problems. I did notice that the "servo" (?? with the cable connected to the throttle) was unplugged. The previous owner must have been trying to solve this problem too. Any ideas?? About the remote.... It did not come with one. I purchased it used from a car dealer online. They assured me that it was tested prior to shippment, and also sent programming codes. I tried the sequence that they indicated, as well as several others, but never got a response from the truck. There is a keypad on the outside of the drivers door, and I have not been able to get it to work either. I located the digital code inside the rear quarter panel and have been trying it without success. Any suggestions?? Any chance any of those relays in the engine compartment are involved??? (the black square jobs in the engine fuse box - i tested those fuses as well.) Marty

Technican: I'll try to get a wiring diagram tomorrow and get some suggestions defined.

Technican: Okay, Lets start with the cruise control. Reconnect the servo under the hood, insure the fuse #10 (7.5 amp) and fuse #13 (15 amp) in the interior fuse panel are good ones. Preliminary Checks: Perform a visual inspection of speed control wiring and components. Look for damage or disconnected wires and damaged components. Ensure the throttle operates without binding/sticking. Ensure the ABS indicator is "OFF". You have stated that the horn works, check your stop lights for proper operation as well. Self-Diagnostic Test: 1. While holding the speed control "OFF" button, turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position. Do NOT start the engine. The speed control indicator on the instruement panel should flash once to indicate successful entry into self-diagnostic mode. 2. Within 5 seconds of entering self-diagnostics, press the speed control "ON" button. Then press remaining speed control buttons in the following sequence; ON, RSM, CST and SET/ACCEL. As each button is pressed, the speed control indicator light will flash. Wait until indicator light goes out to press the next button in the sequence. 3. After sequence has been completed, the indicator light will flash to indicate pass or fail as follows: 1 flash = Passed self-test. 2 flashes = Brake ON/OFF switch faulty or misadjusted. 3 flashes = Brake deactivation switch or circuit open. 4 flashes = Vehicle speed sensor out of range. 5 flashes = Servo/actuator is defective. 4. Immediately after a passed results, actuator performs a dynamic test by automatically operating the throttle .04-.40" (1-10 mm). Observe throttle movement to witness any sticking of the cable or linkage. Ensure throttle returns properly. Advise what result you get from this self-diagnostic proceedure.

Owner: Hi... sorry to take two days to reply, I had to make a quick run out of town. Your last reply was very good. The only thing is that I must not be getting any power at all to the unit (no lights at all - after I get some response, I can check all of it out, with your instructions). I am going to try to check it out tommorrow (friday), and wanted to leave this dialogue open with you in case I have something a little more substantial to go on, or advice about what I discover. Again, thanks and I'll get back with you as soon as I check it out. Marty

Technican: I'm looking forward to hearing how this repair is going.

Owner: Hi ... I have tested the "brake unit" and both leads are hot, as well as 2 hot leads on the "servo". However, I still have no indication of power at the dash in response to attempting to turn on the cruise control. All of the fuses are good... Is it the switch in the steering column...? Marty

Technican: If you never see the speed control indicator light come on during the self-test diagnostic procedure I sent you try the following: To see if a steering wheel control switch is stuck; Measure resistance (KEY OFF) between servo connector pins #5 & #6. (Light Blue/Black and Dark green/Orange wires.)s than 100 OHMS, replace the ON/OFF command switch. 100-3000 OHMS, replace the RSM/SET/ACCEL/CST switch. More than 3000 OHMS = No switches are stuck. Let me know what you find, I have more tests if needed,

Technican: How's it going here?

Owner: Hi ... I went to a junk yard and picked up a RAP, and I now have a remote and keyless entry! I have to tell you about it, so that you will know for future reference... My explorer is a '97 2 dr. I took a chance and got a RAP from a '99 4 dr. and it worked beautifully (with the '99 remote). :) The only difference is that the '97 RAP has an extension from the antenna, that plugs into it, and the '99 does not. What that tells me is that the '99 RAP had been improved, as far as that signal/frequency transmitted from the remote, and received by the RAP, and that the other doors are simply ignored. Nobody I asked, either mechanic at the FORD dealership here, or parts department, could tell me whether it would work... most said that you had to use the exact part number... NOT SO!! They diagnosed the "cruise" as the master cylinder switch. With both problems, I thought I would pay them an hours labor to get the exact problem, and fix it myself, but they didn't charge me anything. This was a good thing, because they were wrong. I replaced that part, but got nothing... It was since there was no charge, that I tried buying the RAP. I did, however find it curious that these two actually have a common ground!!! Hmmmm interesting.... So today, I went back to the junk yard and got the resume switch... I noticed last night while driving that all of the buttons on my power windows and cruise were lit up, except for the resume pad was not... I do not know why this, or anything else that would make diagnostics stop on the master cylinder (Fords second test), but I figured I could try it fairly painlessly, and then I'll run through the diagnostics myself again. I am prepared to do so, and may do it tomorrow. I'll be happy to release these funds to you, if you reply back so I can... I'll also give you my email address, so we can communicate if i have a question after I diagnose the cruise again. Thanks for all your help, Marty

Owner: Let me know how I can help. Your discoveries are interesting to say the least. Most dealerships take on liability issues when they offer advice that may backfire and Lord knows how that can get out of control. Skepticism is somewhat understandable on both sides of a "guess". Are you going to try my self-diagnostic chart on the cruise? My source is the Mitchell I Data Base.

Technican: Resending my reply...

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