1998 Ford Explorer Won't Start - Engine

Question: My 1998 ford expolrer XLT V6 4WD 75, 000 miles has an occaisional problem. Has three happened times. Twice this summer. Sometimes It does not start when the engine is hot. Cranks fine fires but fails to run or idle evenly. I Have scan tool but no error code. Leave it for 1hour to cool and it always starts . If you retry after 30 mins still warm will not start. Battery is new. What component(s) could be causing this?

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Technican: Hello, Which engine, please? 4.0L, or 5.0L? This can get real tough real fast as you are not seeing any codes scanned. That means we have to duplicate the complaint condition and diagnose during that time frame. What is your fuel pressure? Should be 30-45 with key on, engine off. (KOEO) Have you thought about doing an injector fuel rail pressure leak down test? Do you have spark when the engine cranks but will not start? Have you considered an Anti-Theft System fault? Please advise.

Owner: 4.0L V6 OHV. I managed to repaet this problem today after mailing my request. I ran engine till warm for 10 mins. tuned it off and let it soak for 5 mins to simulate short trip going to the bank or post office where it had happened before. Tried to start and it did not. It fires and runs idles low speed roughly and stops. I connected scantool when the problem was there and no DTC codes. Fuel pressure was was indicated 100% when trying to start.

Technican: Fuel pressure was 30-45 psi (100%). Does the fuel filter allow volumn flow? When the condition is present will the engine start if you hold the throttle just slightly off closed? That could identify an idle control problem. Consider resetting your computer by disconnecting the battery for ten minutes. Before you reconnect the battery hold down the foot brake for one minute and release. Reconnect the battery and start and drive the vehicle normally. The computer will relearn idle speed and driving habits. Have you ever had it stumble when starting but then clear itself and run OK? Thinking,

Owner: Engine will not start half throttle or closed. Leave for 1 hour to cool down and it will start first time and run well full power smooth etc. No symptoms when it runs. I suspect the hot soak start problem has been there for 12 months or more and unless you hit a short hot soak stop after a run it will not appear. What parts can make a hot start difficult? could it be EGR related? You mention Injector fuel rail leaks. I have just come back from a vacation where I left the car in the garage for five weeks and it stared first time from cold and ran perfectly. It is related to a hot engine restart condition.

Technican: Here are some ideas to ponder. I can't see what you can so I've got to find a baseline to build on. A crankshaft sensor can cause this condition if the computer gets a poor read during cranking. It helps to turn the key off for ten seconds between tries to restart so the computer gets a fresh look at the sensors it monitors. The computer's adaptive learning capability is reset when the battery is disconnected as previously described. I recommend it. I asked if the fuel filter allows full volumn flow? Pressure does not mean flow so that is my reason for asking. At 75K miles your fuel pump could be having problems if the fuel filter is restricted. The pump's temperature may have increased trying to pump against a restriction and when it stops for a short time it can have trouble restarting until it cools a bit. What does the exhaust look like when the engine fires but runs so poorly? Any dark colored smoke? Are the fumes heavy like flooding? Are the spark plug wire terminals clean on the coil towers? I'm trying here. Wish I could be there to monitor sensor parameters and injector pulse width.

Owner: I know its difficult trying to diagnose the problem without the explorer. I was hoping that this was a problem more common than it seems to be so that someone can say that last time this part fixed the same symptoms. The only sure way was to "cure" the hot start soak problem is 1. do nothing 2. wait one hour to allow something to cool or the fuel/vacuum or something to reach colder starting conditions. Just a recap happen fist time last summer 03. Drove to bank 17 miles on lunchtime from work hot day for quick 5min visit . Car did not start. Called AAA for a tow to dealer arrived in 45 mins. Mechanic tried and it would not start for him also. Loaded on the flatbed as it is 4X4 and took it to his depot only 10 mins away. Their house mechanic tried to start it when it was still on the flatbed and it stated first time - no problem. So they said that unless fault was present it would be difficult to find. Drove to work all winter no problem cold or hot starting. This summer 04 after the exporer had done say 11, 000 miles faultlessly it happened on 3 mile trip to local post office. Went in then 5 mins later came out and tried to restart. I left it for 30 mins to cool. Would not start. I tried opening the fuel cap to relieve and pressure in fuel tank - a suggestion from someone at work. It would not restart so called AAA for tow home. Truck atrrives about 1 hour and embarassingly explorer starts first time. So no tow - I drive home. Third time it happened again with short drive to post office. AAA would take 3 hours this time to arrive so I booked the tow anyway went back after 1 hour and it starts. Cancelled tow. A shorter hot stop like getting gas or a quick hot restart does not seem to show the problem . It needs I would say 5-10 mins hot soak for starting problem to appear like going to the bank or post office which I do rarely. This hot soak is what I managed to create yesterday. There is no smoke or fumes that I could notice. Using scan tool all appears fine. New plugs at 60000 miles. Air filter clean OK. Cannot think it is fuel pump as I would have expected this problem to appear during driving highway or around town. After 1 year hopefully part would fail totally and hence problem would be easy. But engine runs perfectly. I can try battery diconnect to reset engine computer but I do not think it will cure the hot start problem. There has to be a component/system which does not work well and affects the hot start. Crank position sensor is possible but adgain I am doubtful as it should show symptoms at other times. I was hoping to find someone who had experierce of this type of explorer problem . I may have to take it to the dealer now that the problem can be repeated.

Technican: Please try the battery disconnect routine. I'd be interested in the results. If you prefer you may release this question for other mechanics to try to help. A crankshaft sensor is effected by heat on many makes/models. I've sprayed brake parts cleaner on the crankshaft sensor when a hot soak vehicle wouldn't start. The spray cooled the sensor, the spray evaporates quickly, and the engine starts. No codes were ever set.

Technican: somehow Your answer came to me you need to resend it

Technican: Hi, I recommend replacing the crank senosr. It is about $24 from Ford and a common cause of this problem. You can also check the relay for the fuel pump and especially the PCM relay and contacts. A fuel pump with low volume can allow a vapor lock condition causing a no start. Let me know which fixes it!

Owner: Ok changed the crank sensor which seemed the suspect. Hot start problem still there. At least that is eliminated. What is the next step you would try.

Technican: Check the PCM and fuel pump relays. They also are cheap, and common problems. Look at the pins for any sign of overheating or corrosion. Use a scanner to check engine coolant temperature. If it is out of range, it can make a hard start situation. Also check fuel volume.

Owner: The scanner indicated temp of 198-202 when i could re create the hot start problem today. I also checked by feeling top hose that the theromstat was opening ok and it was. Again no DTC codes indicated when it failed to start. Where could I get typical running values on all the 93 or so engine parameters to compare with what I have on my Explorer? I will check the PCM and FP relays. tomorrow.

Technican: Sounds like the coolant temp sensor is in the proper range. Check to make sure the scanner reads RPM while cranking at the time when the truck fails to start. Try adding some fuel to the intake when the problem occurs (starting fluid or carb cleaner). If it starts, then it is obviously a fuel problem. Check for spark at several plugs when it fails to start. Fuel pressure is to be 38-42PSI key on, engine off.(check this when it will not start) Update me with what you find! PS If you want to check all 93 scanner parameters, write them down with key on, engine off at a time when the vehicle is starting, then compare when the vehicle fails to start.

Owner: The squirting or carb cleaner into intake or is a good idea I wll go and buy some. Do you suggest i Remove the air fiter to do this directly into the intake manifold? Also if I remove the PCM relay to inpect is this the same as removing power to the unit as a battery disconnect so that it will have to relearn all pramenters after a short drive? I do not want to disconnect the battery as i cannot at the mement find radio security code which i think will be be needed. How can i just depower the PCM alone to force a relearn without screwing the radio?

Technican: The added fuel can be any place in the intake tubing. Spraying outside the air filter breaks the particles better, but takes a little longer to reach the cylinders. It is probably safer as it is less likely to overfuel the engine. Removing the relay will not clear the memory. To clear the memory, disconnect the wire connector to the computer on the firewall. Or remove mini-fuse #6 in the power distribution box. Leave it disconnected for 5 minutes.

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