|
2000 Ford Explorer Leaking - Engine
Question: After shutting off fully warmed vehicle, the strong smell of gas fills the garage and house. Local Ford Dealer smells the same thing when they take the car home with them BUT CAN'T FIND SOURCE - EVEN UNDER PRESSURE.
Here's How To Get Guaranteed Solutions In Minutes
|
|
Technican: Hello, Is the smell a raw fuel odor or heavy exhaust?
Portions of the fuel lines are plastic. Has an inspection of the entire length of the lines been done to look for damage from impact from something flipped up under the vehicle while going down the road? A brite flashlight is a must.
Do you ever see fuel drip? Has gas mileage suddenly gone down? Are all the emissions system hoses in good condition and tightly connected according to the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label under the hood? Is the gas cap the correct type and installed correctly? Have any diagnostic codes set?
If you have tagged all these bases and I've not given you a thought to consider, release the question so that others may try to help.
Owner: I was hoping for a more specific remedy. The Ford Dealer claimed to have checked the things you mentioned. Raw gas smell, no drips.
Technican: I suspect the Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS). Quoting from a Haynes Manual :
General description
1. This system is designed to trap and store fuel vapors that evaporate from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake manifold.
2. The EECS consists of a charcoal-filled cannister and the lines connecting the cannister to the fuel tank, ported vacuum and intake manifold vacuum.
3. Fuel vapors are transferred from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake manifold to a cannister where they are stored when the engine is not operating. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are purged from the cannister by a purge control solenoid, which is PCM controlled, and consumed in the normal combustion process.
Check
4. Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can be caused by an inoperative solenoid, a damaged cannister, split or cracked hoses or hoses connected to the wrong tubes.
5. Evidence of fuel loss or fuel odor can be caused by fuel leaking from the fuel lines or the TBI, a cracked or damaged cannister, an inoperative bowl vent valve, an inoperative purge valve, disconnected, missrouted, kinked, deteriorated or damaged vapor or control hoses or an improperly seated air cleaner or air cleaner gasket.
6. Inspect each hose attached to the cannister for kinks, leaks and breaks along its entire length. Repair or replace as necessary.
7. Inspect the cannister. If it is cracked or damaged, replace it.
8. Look for fuel leaking from the bottom of the cannister. If fuel is leaking, replace the cannister and check the hoses and hose routing.
9. Apply a short length of hose to the lower tube of the purge valve assembly and attempt to blow through it. Little or no air should pass into the cannister (a small amount of air will pass because the cannister has a constant-purge hole).
10. With a hand-held vacuum pump, apply vacuum through the control vacuum signal tube near the throttle body to the purge control solenoid diaphram.
11. If the purge control solenoid does not hold vacuum for at least 20 seconds, the purge control solenoid is leaking and must be replaced.
12. If the diaphram holds the vacuum, apply battery voltage to the purge control solenoid and observe that vacuum (vapors) are allowed to pass through the system.
Component replacement
13. Clearly label, then detach, all vacuum lines from the cannister.
14. Loosen the cannister mounting clamp bolt and pull the cannister out.
15. Installation is the reverse of removal.
It is most difficult to offer a specific answer to this problem as we are both counting on the efforts of others to do the diagnosis process for us. I do hope this information I've typed for you will be helpful in finding the cure.
Technican: Hello, What is happening here, please?
Please advise. Here's How To Get Guaranteed Solutions In Minutes
|
|
|
