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Technican: Hello, Dirty, corroded, and loose ground connections limit the amps that can flow in a circuit. A blower motor that is wearing out can draw too many amps to turn and pull voltage down too.
Is your alternator belt tight? Do you have an alternator with enough amp rating to power your car and all it's accessaries? Battery cable connections clean and tight? Did the problem show up after the new starter was installed? Why was it replaced?
Please advise.
Owner: The starter was replaced because the old starter stayed stuck on when the car was shut off and the key removed therefore I unhooked the battery to shut the starter off. I changed the cylinoid and the starter
Technican: Did you receive my message?
One other thought...does your engine idle at the correct RPM?
Technican: OK, The starter was replaced because it stuck "on".
Will you give some thought to my other questions about your car and tell me your answers please?
Owner: Yes the alternator belt is tight although it looks like it is the original alternator on the car. The battery connections are clean and tight. Yes, the problem started after the new starter was installed. The engine idles at the correct RPM except when the heat/ac is on.
Technican: I would suggest having the alternator tested for it's max output. One of the diodes may have failed and output capacity may be impaired.
Most national auto parts chain stores will test the alternator and battery (still on the car) for free. I'd be very interested as to what they find.
Will you please see if you can arrange this test and let me know what you find?
Owner: I've had the alternator checked two times (along with the battery) at Advanced Auto and I believe it is the amps on the alternator that come up a little low. Volts are good. Both tests show the same results. The alternator actually looks like the original. I'm thinking I should just change it.
When I changed the starter (the originial), I bought a new cylinoid to put on as well since the instructions said to change it with the starter. When I changed it, the starter stays engaged. I have to disconnect the battery for it to stop, so I put the original cylinoid back on vehicle and it's fine. I tried this three different times. I bought and took back two to Advanced Auto since they said sometimes they come in bad, and the last one I bought from Ford. The same thing keeps happening. I have the original still on there. What am I doing wrong if anything. The one from Ford is exactly like the one that is on the car and I am putting it on exactly the same way, but when I go to start the car it says engaged.
The car has only 48, 000 miles on it and it runs beautiful just has these few minor aggravations.
Technican: When an alternator has a load demand for power the volts will be okay until the alternator reaches it's capacity to keep up. Then the volts start to fall away. When tested, if the max load for amps can be achieved before volts start to drop the alternator passes the load test.
Does your ignition switch release properly from "Start" back to "Run"? Could it e hanging up and keeping the starter on? I'm wrestling with what appears to be incompatability of these different solenoids. There wouldn't likely be that many bad in a row and you are confident that each one has been wired correctly...
Does your started need a shim? Well, probably not since the problem goes back to the original starter before it was removed.
Can you rotate the ignition key back slightly and cause the starter to disengage without killing the engine?
Technican: Hello, May I have the courtesy of an update on the status of this question please?
Owner: Still cannot figure out the problem. I thought battery was too small, but I had it checked out and it was the right size for all the options I have. It's only when I turn the heater on the battery guage drops and when I'm in drive it almost kills the car. Everyone I talk to seems to have run out of ideas.
Technican: So is the starter problem fixed?
I had asked you before..does your engine idle at the correct RPM to handle the load of the A/C compressor and blower motor when in Drive? Have you tried tweaking it up?
Have you checked to see how easily your A/C compressor turns? Try disconnecting the electrical connector at the clutch and see what happens.
I'm not as concerned about the gauge reading as I am the engine acting like it will die in gear.
Your thoughts?,
Owner: Yes, I changed the starter and the alternator. That problem is fixed.
What do you mean by tweaking? And what should I tweak up?
A/C compressor turns okay.
I'm thinking maybe a cell is dead in the battery. I have had it checked out and the battery voltage is okay. The headlights dim when I put on the rear defrosters and front defrosters on. Could it be a bad relay?
Technican: What I meant by tweaking the idle speed is to increase the RPMs slightly to handle the increased electrical load. Have you set the idle RPM?
You said you had the battery checked out, that it is the right size for all the options you have. How is it you now suspect a dead cell in the battery?
Do you have a ground wire between the battery negative cable connection and the body of the car? This would be in addition to the cable grounding on the frame or engine. Do you have a ground from the engine to the body?
What is the output voltage of the alternator at idle? How much of a drop in voltage do you see (at idle RPM) when you turn on the rear defog or a/c? Here's How To Get Guaranteed Solutions In Minutes
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