1988 Ford Mustang Failing - Ignition System

Question: Awhile back my alternator plug burned up so i got a new alternator and plug and fixed the wires that got hot and shorted by the coil but im not sure if there was a fuse link there that i should have put a new one in. This weekend my car died while excelerating from a stoplight and my balast resistor might have been shorting to the fendor because it was cracked in half. Now i am getting 12 volts to my coil but i am only getting 12 volts out of the coil. So far I have put a new computer/relay by computer/and a new coil. The coil is good. No bad fuses. and i also changed the Ignition relay on the side of the distributor. When it first broke, the tach would go crazy when i tried to start it up. Could this be my distributor? Can I check my distributor resistance? Also does a coil need a ballast resistor to run. I have been told it doesnt.

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Technican: The way of checking the distributor system is by replacing parts yours consist of a cap, rotor, stator assembly and a amature along with the EEC module. Now your standard ignition module is one thing you can check, look underneath to see if it is grounded with a grease or lubrication usually put on upon install. Most of checking the distributor is looking for cracks on the parts, thoroughly inspecting parts for physical damage I hope this helps

Owner: If i am getting 12 volts to my coil and only getting 12 volts out of my coil could there be something wrong with my distributer, i already changed my eec. is there some kind of loop between my coil and distrubotor, to build voltage. SO is 12 volts ok to the coil

Technican: yes 12 volts is ok to the coil the resister is very important to balance out the load of the coil . the resistor takes a lot of the heat away from the coil, if it gets 12 volts then it will still start and run, the high voltage comes out of the center output

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