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Technican: You're on the right track. If you have jumped the motor to direct power other than ground, do so. I have found many times that the master switch on the drivers side comes into play in a situation like this. Pull the trim plate over the switch and check the connection for any errant or loose wires. If I remember correctly, there are two seperate switchs for the windows plugged into the harness. Remove them and check the prongs that go into the harness, make sure there is no corrosion, then switch them side to side and check for opperation again.(Using a good electrical cleaner while doing this doesnt hurt)If nothing happens my next step would be removing door trim panels, locate the wires running direct to motor and probe the back side of both connectios while depressing the switch. No power here, bad switch. If when you tested for power before was at this jucture, and all other electrical is working properly, you need to get a wiring diagram to trace for specific ground. There are grounds all over this vehicle but if my mind serves me correctly, this is located somewhere around the inner left kick panel or firewall.
Paul
Owner: I need to know where the ground is located. The print does not show the location. All switches are good as are the connections and wires.
Owner: The motors are also good as I stated earlier.
Owner: Hello,
I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.
Owner: Cannot find a ground under left or right kick panel.If you could tell me where the ground is located for the windows then I could find out if the ground is the problem. Thanks
Owner: I need to know location for the ground to the power windows. So I can fix or eliminate this as the root cause of the problem.
Owner: Hello please let me know why no one is answering my question.
Technican: Hello, I'm sorry you are not getting an answer quickly. I'll try to help.
The ground for the power windows is G302 and should be located in the rear seat or trunk area. I'll get you a more specific answer when I get to a different data base later today.
Meanwhile, to test your wiring ground circuit from the driver's power window/door lock control switch:
Disconnect the power window and door lock switches from the car's wiring harness.
Find the Black color wires that connect to switch terminals 4, 6, 10 & 13. They all go to the same grounding destination via wire splices along the route.
Using an ohm meter, test any of these black wires for continuity to a known good ground on the car body. The reading should be less than 5 ohms and more desired to be about as close to 0.5 ohms as possible. This can vary by how good the connection is from the meter's test lead pins to their point of contact for the test.
If you do not get a favorable reading the first place I would look is inside the flex boot for the wiring that runs between the driver's door and the car body. The repeated open/close movement of this door can over time cause a broken wire inside the boot. This would effect door switches but not other components such as the rear speakers that continue to work yet share the same ground point G302 on the car's body.
Make sense?,
Owner: Hey I appreciate your reponse and will check ground as per instruction you have provided. Also would appreciate the info from your other data base when you obtain. I will also inform as to what I find when I complete this procedure you provided me with. Thank you for replying and providing your expertise.
Technican: I'll be back later today. Should you find the ground continuity test results are acceptable you will have reason to believe the switch has lost the internal ability to switch the ground for the window motors. Replace the switch.
It is not uncommon for the right door window switch to be connected in parallel with the driver's control switch. Everything that the right switch is supposed to do must be routed through the driver's switch. This is why control from both door switches can quit at the same time.
Is this car a coupe or convertable? GT? What series please?
Owner: Its a coupe
Technican: Ground G302 is located "Below rear of center console" on both the coupe an the convertable models in 1994.
My source is the Mitchell 1 Auto Reair Data Base.
When you are ready, please advise.
Owner: I already removed console but did not see a ground there. I have a doc that stated the ground was there but could not see it there when I removed console.
Technican: Interesting! No wonder you are having trouble. Did you lift the carpet?
I haven't checked all series of the 94 Mustang. What I guessed to look at for data is the GT model. What is yours? Do have the production date of your car displayed on the driver's door?
Owner: I will check to see if data is on door. I did put my hand under carpet but didn't feel any ground there. I will get back to you as soon as I can check door. Thanks.
Technican: I submit you may have to remove one or both front seats and the rear seat lower cushion to get the carpet out of the way to reveal the wiring loom's route and ground point G203.
I hope it doesn't come to that,
Owner: I checked grounds at the switch as you requested they checked good. The label on drivers door is 01/1994.
Technican: Since the grounds check good you can believe the ground G302 has a good connection. Rather than pull the seats and carpet for a visual of the ground I would now be shopping for a switch. Note that if the carpet has been wet for an extended period of time the ground G302 could have corrosion. An acceptable Ohm check of the Black wires to ground should be assurance that this has not happened.
The production date on the door is early enough in the production year that these shop manuals you and I have data from should be reliable as to the location of G302.
Power should be arriving at the Master Switch connector on the drivers door via a Light Blue/Black wire. If at the disconnected power window switch connector you were to jumper power from the LtBlu/Blk wire (pin #7) to the Wht/Blk wire (pin #3), and then jumper the Yellow wire (pin #5) to one of the Black wires (pin #4, 6, 10, or 13), the drivers power window should move down. Does it?
To raise the driver's window, jumper the Yellow wire (pin #5) to the LtBlu/Blk wire (pin #7), and then jumper the Wht/Blk wire (pin #3 to one of the Black wires (pin #4, 6, 10 or 13). The window should move up.
If you do the above and get normal results, your driver's master control switch is bad.
I need to state that I have referred to the ground for the window circuits to be both G203 & G302. G302 is correct, G203 is incorrect.
What was the measured result of the resistance to ground (in ohms) that you found from the window switch connector Black wires to the car body?
Owner: I found a bare wire to the lock/unlock on drivers grounding out on the window regulator track. I repaired and now the drivers window is working OK. The passenger window will go up and down when I manually jump out the wires. But I noticed that you can make it go up using the switch but will not go down using the switch. I opened the switch and it looks good. What do I need to do now? Thanks
Technican: Hey, you found a bare wire grounding out...that may have been causing the circuit breaker to trip!
Tell me about the passenger window again. You can make it work by jumping the wires at the disconnected switch connector, but it will not go down with the switch. Is this correct and are we talking about the driver's master control switch for the windows? Does the passenger side window control switch control the right power window (both up and down) if the driver's master switch is connect to the wiring connector? Yes? Verify the tight contact/fit of all wires in the connector to the driver's control switch. Wiggle the wires in the connector while you hold the the passenger window switch that has the problem in the "down" command position. If the window doesn't respond to your efforts, replace the driver side window master switch assembly.
Please advise.
Owner: Hey I was working from the switch on the passenger side. It goes down when jumped out at the plug to the motor. When I jumped it out to make it go down I could reconnect the plug and it would go up by the switch. I tried operating window from the driver side to make it go down only. No loose wires there. What wires at the switch do I jump out to make it go up & down?
Technican: If I understand you correctly, you wish to jump wires at the passenger power window switch connector (disconnected) for window up and for window down.
To move the passenger window Down:
NOTE: The driver's window master switch must remain connected to the wiring harness. Turn the key ON.
Jump the Lt Blu/Blk wire (pin #6) to the Yel/Red wire (pin #10) and the Tan/Lt Blu wire (pin #4) to the Red/Yel wire (pin #3)
To move the passenger window up:
Jump the LT Blu/Blk wire (pin #6) to the Red/Yel wire (pin #3) and jump the Wht/Yel wire (pin #9) to the Yel/Red wire (pin #10).
If favorable results are found by jumping the wires but not by the control switch, replace the right door power window switch.
If unfavorable results are found by jumping wires at the right door power window switch connector:
1. With the key OFF check continuity of like color wires between the two power window control switch connectors with both switches disconnected. Repair as needed.
2.Replace the driver's power window master control switch because it is not allowing the ground path internally to pass to G302.
Technican: Thought I'd check in and see how you are doing?
Owner: I was able to make window go down by junping switch at passenger switch. I then ohmed out the wires that went to master switch and they were good. The switches are the plug in module type so I swapped switches around and no difference. You suggested changing master switch bust because they are plug in individual module switches I'm not sure what to do. Sorry in not getting back sooner but have been out of town. Thanks MP
Technican: I have read through this dialog and I'm getting confused.
Driver's window is okay now, you fixed a wire that was grounding out...
We know the wiring, ground, and the motors are good. It comes down to passenger window control switches. One or both are bad.
What control do you have of the passenger window from the driver's door? What control do you have of the passenger window from the passenger door control switch?
Owner: The switches on both sides work the same. They will take the window up but not down. As earlier stated I performed the checks you requested and did not find any bad wires between switches. The switches are all individual plug in switches into a plane or a board type receptacle. I do notice when I try to move window down with switch I have voltage going to both sides of switch. MP
Technican: Thank you. I believe that replacing the passenger power window switch on the driver's door would be my first move.
Owner: I have swapped all the switches around to different windows and get same results.
Technican: Where can I email a wiring schematic for the power window system for your review?
Swapping the switches around only keeps the problem present in the system. You have verified the wiring, ground, and the motors to be in working order. You are going to need one or both window control switches for the passenger window.
May I please have your email address?
Owner:
Technican: Thank you, I'll get that done right away.
Owner: Hey still waiting for email. Thanks MP
Technican: I'll resend it! Subject will read "Power Window Schematic".
Technican: The email has been sent again.
Owner: Its not in my inbox
Technican: Do you have a bulk mail folder or a spam filter that is blocking me? I am not getting the email returned as undeliverable.
Would a fax work for you?
Owner: Try If it doesn't come through I'll give you a fax #
Technican: Ok, I'll try Earthlink.
Technican: The diagram has been sent to earthlink addy.
Owner: OK received Thanks MP
Technican: Okay, let me know your thoughts.
I've never had so much trouble sending an email to a customer. You must have filters that blocked my first two attempts. The messages did not come back as undeliverable.
I'll look for your next message,
Owner: OK I will keep you posted. Thanks MP
Technican: Thank you.
Owner: Hey,
Sorry for not getting back with you sooner. My windows are all working now. I replaced the driver side switch panel passenger window began to function properly. the driver window which was working then stopped. I tapped on the motor with a hammer and then it started working again. I ordered another motor. When the motor arrived the window stopped working again so I installed the new motor. It was a peice of cake to install. I only had to remove panel and unbolt motor and remove and install new one. I have replaced these motors on other cars before and had to drill out rivets to remove motor. But anyways they have been working great. I appreciate your expertise and patience. You are an asset to and I will highly recommend anyone needing technical assistance here. Thanks Mauri Price
Technican: What a neat story. I'm glad you conquered this rascal.
I do enjoy doing this or I would bow out. Most everytime I'm able to see it through to a positive outcome. I never stop learning and like you I never give up.
Great job!
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