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1990 Ford Ranger Pick-up Won't Start - Ignition System
Question: Truck was running great then pinged and stalled, would not restart. Towed it home.
After sitting overnight, will crank, start then stall, acts as if timing is advanced. Timing belt OK, we have fuel pressure at S. valve, fuel injection seems to work, replaced DIS igition module, have spark in one coil [above], 2nd coil on [lower] intake side gives nospark, replaced it, still no spark. Engine sounds great when it starts to run, revs and dies after few seconds. How do we do a test on the crank sensor? Any other ideas? All cables look okay. Any way to check those? Have an ohm meter. Thanks! Claudia
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Owner: "Jun 13/04 12:52PM: Truck was running great then pinged and stalled, would not restart. Towed it home.
After sitting overnight, will crank, start then stall, acts as if timing is advanced. Timing belt OK, we have fuel pressure at S. valve, fuel injection seems to work, replaced DIS igition module, have spark in one coil [above], 2nd coil on [lower] intake side gives nospark, replaced it, still no spark. Engine sounds great when it starts to run, revs and dies after few seconds. How do we do a test on the crank sensor? Any other ideas? All cables look okay. Any way to check those? Have an ohm meter. Thanks! Claudia" P.s. It"s a 2.3 L, 5 speed 4 cyl.
Technican: How much fuel pressure do you have? Have you replaced the fuel filter? Remember that pressure does not mean volumn, so the flow may be resrticted.
I'll look up relative data tomorrow when I can access the data base I need to research this for you.
Owner: Thanks ! I'll tell Mike what you said and we'll tune in tomorrow!
Thank you so much!
Claudia
Technican: Claudia, Can you receive a 16 page FAX? If so, please advise the number and if a cover sheet for the FAX is needed.
Owner: Dear,
I have a friend who can receive a fax from you. The fax number is: 541-346-2067. The machine is on 24 hrs a day. A cover page would be good. You'll send to Claudia care of Mary Milo at University of Oregon, Geography dept. Thank you so much for your help!
Claudia
Technican: I'll send the FAX this morning. It's a bit much, but very hard for me to condense. So many reasons for the fault cause I would want a scanner and some time to dig-in.
See what you think...
Owner: Dear,
Anything you can send will help, I'm sure. We are stumped. I got the DIS unit from a wrecking yard, but they are very reputable and we are trusting that the unit is good...Is there a way to verify the DIS? The numbers on the terminal to the DIS seemed to be different than what we had in the Haynes manual. If the # 1 coil is sparking, and the #2 coil is not sparking at all, is there any link before the DIS that could be the trouble? When the truck "cranks" the first time after sitting a day or two, it runs great then stalls and maybe sometime after the first crank and run, if we try again, it will turn over normally off and on, but without starting, and then some times it just sounds almost like the battery is dead when we try it. We have the battery jumped so we know we've got a good battery. My friend/mechanic Mike says it "sounds like the timing is advanced". It sounds kind of sluggish and like it is struggling to crank.
Words fail. It is so mysterious. Thank you for any/all you can send us to troubleshoot. Haynes is no help at this level!
Your pal,
Claudia
Technican: Sift through the info I sent and it may guide you to the problem cause. Note the wiring colors to the DIS on the system schematic. They should match your vehicle. If not, send me a smoke signal.
I don't know of a way to test a used DIS. Can a local auto parts chain store do this for you? They can test ignition modules, batteries, starters, alternators and more.
Owner: Thanks,
I'll go over the materials and share with my cohort.
We'll see what's next. Thanks again for all your help.
Claudia
Technican: You're welcome. I'll look forward to your next message.
Owner: Dear,
Thank you for all this info on the Pin Pt. tests for my 90 Ranger. It is very daunting to say the least! I need some elementary info if you could help me, I'd sure appreciate it. On the schematic you sent, the EEC is shown having J1-60? the drawing is very difficult to read, but it is better than nothin'! Anyway, 1st question: Is the numbering on the Js 1-60, i.e. are there 60 [really?]jumpers located in the EEC box in my vehicle? 2nd Q: Is there a diagnostic cable tool I need to buy for the 6-pin format of the self test connectors? And is there such a thing as a "break out box", aka BOB, which I need to buy to test these various self test boxes?
Now [you are probably either laughing at, or crying for me]...I did have my coils and DIS checked at the Auto parts store. They are a-okay. The funny thing is now, we have NO SPARK in either coil. Go figure. So Mike and I are guessing [literally at this point] it might be the crank sensor, or worst case maybe the ECA [aka ECM]. There was some water damage/corrosion on the casing of the ECA, and a mouse nest under the kick panel! But the circuit board and wiring looked untouched. So this is my "smoke signal"/non-progress report. Any ideas?
A million thanks!
Claudia
Technican: The EEC connector body does indeed have 60 cavities for wires. However, many cavities do not have a wire in them.
The self test connector wire terminals are where one would connect a scan tool so I don't think you would need a special cable to connect. All six wires carry output data from the EEC that a scanner will read.
A BOB is a test connector box that a Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer service dept has. Notice the infor calls for an "Overlay"? An overlay is a pre-cut decal that identifies the circuit holes by number in the BOB to be probed for testing as called for in the PIN Tests. You can do the tests by following the circuit position in the connector, i.e. J2 to J60, etc.
If you believe there is a chance that water got into the EEC it is likely toast even though you see no damage or trace of ingress. A rain leak that gets onto the computer will fail a new one, too. Wrap it in a plastic bag as you install it to repel water.
A salvage yard is the only place you can save money that I know of on an EEC. National auto parts chain stores carry them and some have a lifetime warranty. They will likely want your old one as a core. Don't volunteer too much information! You want credit for your old one. Here's How To Get Guaranteed Solutions In Minutes
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