1993 Ford Taurus Malfunction - Electrical & Lighting Systems


Question: I have a 1993 Ford Taurus SHO. Just replaced the alternator and battery. When replacing the alternator and hooking the wiring back to it I found the black wire taped off, I don't know where it goes. The alternator still will not charge. Can you help?

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Technican: Hello, Do you have the 3.2L SHO? My schematic shows a LT GRN/RED, a YEL/WHT, and a BLK/ORG wire connect to the alternator. The BLK/ORG wire runs from the starter solenoid to the alternator. Where connected to the starter solenoid and on the same terminal there is a BLK/ORG Fusible Link, also. Any help?
Owner: Will this take care of the alternator not charging the battery?
Technican: It should. The BLK/ORG wire that runs between the alternator terminal and the starter solenoid terminal (that the same color fusible link connects to) is indeed the output circuit from the alternator that charges the battery. This heavy gauge wire is fastened to both the starter solenoid and the alternator with a nut. If it is not connected the alternator cannot charge the battery. The negative battery cable needs to be disconnected from the battery while you connect/disconnect any wire from the alternator or you run the risk of a powerful short circuit that can cause personal injury to you and damage to your vehicle. Do not overtighten these connections. Your thoughts?,
Owner: I will work on this. You ask if I had a 3.2L, yes I do. I'll let you know what happens. I'll get back to you. Thanks again.
Technican: Good, I'm looking forward to your next report. Please advise.
Owner: This may sound pretty bad but where is the starter located on my SHO?
Technican: Your starter is below the exhaust manifold on the side of the engine block closest to the radiator. It can be seen best from under the car. The starter solenoid mounts piggy-back on top of the starter and the electrical connections are made on the solenoid terminals. Please note that after the car's battery has been disconnected and reconnected some abnormal driveability symptoms may occur while the PCM relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may have to be driven 10 or more miles to relearn its strategy.
Owner: I'll get this connected, I hope.
Technican: Please let me know what happens. Do you have gauges so you may see the voltage charging? How will you test to see if this is all that was needed? My house is full of the joy of two of my grandkids. I'm trying to keep up with them and my efforts here too.
Owner: I had to buy another altenator and am having problems with getting the belt around the altenator. I looked for a tensioner but can't locate it. Is there a special way of hooking this up?
Technican: The tensioner pully is the one on which the backside of the serpentine belt rides. The water pump is the only other pully that the back side of the belt runs on and of course is not adjustable. The tensioner has strong spring resistance and the pully itself is usually mounted at the bottom of a pendalum arm. The bolt that goes through the center of the pulley wheel is where a box-end wrench or a socket (size 16mm?) is used to relieve the spring tension and allow the belt to be slipped on/off. The longer the tool for leverage the easier the effort to control the tensioner. Usually turning the bolt to the right will release the tensioner but not loosen the pully bolt. Does this help?
Technican: I'm checking in for an update. Any News here?

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