2000 Ford Taurus Malfunction - Electrical & Lighting Systems

Question: Driver's window will intermittently not respond to attempts to raise or lower from the master switch. All other windows continue to function. When the switch is actuated, one click is audible, the sound coming from the dash. If the switch is fully depressed to actuate automatic full-open, two clicks are heard. Problem seems to appear when the car has been parked overnight or for an extended period. This occurs from any window position, from fully closed to fully open. After the car has been in service for an hour or so, the function returns. The problem was diagnosed by a Ford dealer technician as a bad switch - but I was skeptical and did not authorize replacement. With help from a friend who is knowledgable, I replaced the masterswitch from a junkyard source and verified acceptable function. Unfortunately - but as I suspected would happen - the intermittancy remains. Seeking your advice on how best to solve this problem.

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Technican: do you have a fax line I can fax you a circuit diagram that can help you chase the power flow to the intermittent unit. Send me specifics on your car (pro date, options and engine size, DOHC or SOHC) ASE Master Tech

Owner: Walt Thanks for the reply. I can receive FAX. Also have specifics you asked for. Unfortunately I must put this inquiry on hold for two weeks to deal with other issues. Seems like this is the best time to preserve the value of your info and my motivation to continue. Hope you can wait. I'll be back! Lew

Owner: Hello, I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Technican: Thank you

Technican: Hi, The most likely cause of intermittent window operation is from the motor itself. If you are hearing a click in the dash, then the signal is being sent by the switch. (switch is OK) Some times the motors stick until used, or there is too much drag on the glass. Make sure the glass slide freely when working. Open the door panel and tap the window motor lightly when it is not working. If the cause is a stuck brush, it will most likely start running again. (replace motor)

Owner: Hi, What you say matches my view of problem right now. Would like to know the following; 1. how to assure window is moving smoothly or not while window is operable, and what might be done if it is not moving smoothly? 2. When you say open the door panel, do you mean that I should remove screws and lift off the panel? I've seen that area when the switch was changed. Hadn't a clue how to take motor out, but did remove and reinstall the motor wire harness. Do you have any guidance on the details of replacing the motor? Could I swap motors with right front or rear windows? If so, which swap is easiest? I can receive FAX, if you have instructions or diagrams to share. Lew

Technican: The door panel will need to come off. This project will take some time and persistance. I would remove the panel, check the voltage between the 2 wires going to the motor. If it is over 10V with the button pushed, and the window is not moving, then it is time for a motor. DO NOT waste time trying to swap with another door. Buy a rebuilt or new if yours is bad. To change one is enough! It will require drilling, riveting and other challenging mechanical procedures.

Owner: Thanks so much for the good info. I have since tried to jog the motor off a flat spot by repeated pounding on the bottom of the door in the vicinity of the motor and opening and slamming the door. Also wiggled the wire bundle to the door vigorously and repeatedly. No joy on either. Before I take off the panel again, I plan to try to stop the window about half way down and induce the failure, then lift and wiggle the window around to see if I can restart function that way. So far, Plan A is replace the motor. Anyway, you describe the motor change as a job for guys with more skills, tools and stones than me. I think I need a Plan B. Let's say I give up the banging and wiggling, remove the panel, and measure the voltage. Lo and behold, 10v are not available at the motor, even though the relay is working, as indicated by the sounds coming from the dash(Since I asked my original question, I confirmed using a stethoscope that the sounds are coming from the "One Touch Down" relay located above the fuses on the central electrical block under the steering column) Should my next move be to pull/replace the relay on the theory that it no longer reliably supports the power draw needed to energize the motor? Let's say the relay replacement doesn't work and it's in the wiring. Are there any other harness checks or swap-out routes that make sense? Thanks again, Lew

Technican: I have seen failures in the one-touch relays. Even though they click, they may not necessarily pass current through to the motor. Replacing a wiring harness is clearly more work than changing a motor. Sometimes a wire will break off in the bundle where it bends as the door opens. Find out if the relay makes a difference, then see if you have voltage coming to the motor.

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