Ford Thunderbird Car Answers
I have a 1989 ford thunderbird 3.8 eng. auto trans. and it will not change into overdrive. drive works fine.
have adjusted the tv cable and did not help.My headlights don't work on dim but work on brights. Do I change headlights or get a bulb?I have a 1993 Thunderbird LX. I hear a hissing noise from the heating and cooling head unit. I've remove the head unit, sprayed carb cleaner behind it to see if it was a vacuum leak. Found nothing. When I accelerate the noise seems to dissapear. So I figured it was in the vac. pak. Went to the junk yard and got a new head unit. Installed it, and still same problem. We hooked it up to a computer to read the info from the car computer. It said that My EGR Vacuum regulater was opperating @ 0%. and the O2 sensers were both reading rich. I was wondering how to stop the headunit from "leaking" because I was assuming the car was running rich because the EGR wasn't opening/closing because of a possible vacuum leak in headunit (heating/cooling) I'm kind of stuck on this and have been chasing my tail for about a year. Also the car has a bit of a rough idle and occasonally has a vibration/tapping noise. Thanks - TimHi,
I have an 85 turbo coupe.Does this motor have an ACT sensor?(air charge temp)After 3 tries the motor will start but runs real sluggish until it warms up and then it is fine.Would the ACT sensor cause the problem or is it something else?
Dave N.Please help me. I need to know the location of the ignition module in a 4.6 enginewe are trying to replace our fan belt and we have no patternI need to know what the firing order is on a 1987 ford t-bird 3.8L v-6 . And where do I start the # 1 wire on the distributor cap? Thx for the help!I HAVE AN 1984 THUNDERBIRD I JUST GOT THE VACUME LINES REPLACED AND RECONECTED CORRECTLY AND I SO GOT SOME WORK DONE SO THAT I WOULD PAST THE SMOG TEST NOW THE "ENGINE LIGHT" IS ON AND THE CAR CUTS OFF WHEN I STOP AND I HAVE TO WAIT A MINUTE--- "PRESS THE GAS PEDLE" TO START THE CAR BAUT SOMETIMES IT CUTS BACK OFF, COOLAINT SO LEAKS OUT SOMETIMES WHEN THE CAR STOPS AND DIES OUT, SMOKE SO COMES FROM ENGINE, CAN YOU HELP ME FIGURE OUT WHATS WRONGWe have a 95 Tbird with a 4.6L V8. The check engine light keeps coming on. We have had all four oxygen sensors changed within a 3 month period. SPark plugs and wires were changed last year and the EGR valve replaced. The engine runs smoothly and idles fine. We also had the coolant temp sensor replaced. The mechanic said that according to the code, the engine was running lean. We would cancel it out by disconnecting the NEG battery terminal and in about a week, the check engine light would come back on. We checked for vaccum leaks but found none. Any idea why that light still comes on even when there is no apparent change in the cars starting or driving ?Can I change engine & trans from a 2000 Ranger crew cab (4 DR, )w/ a 3.8l v-6, w/ a od trans. It's the exact same configuration as my '94 t-bird's. My car has 70, 000 mi on it. the Ranger has 23, 000 on it. And will the wire looms be compatible?The back seal in the transmission was leaking and when the shop repaired it they didn't connect the universal properly and it flew appart at 100k. It damaged the drive shaft and a new one was made up, balanced and installed. The shaft balance was re-checked but it still vibrates at about 70k. and up.
What's happening?How is going? I have a 1993 tbird with a 302. I
wanted to swap out the automatic transmission for a
manual T-5. I was going to get the pedals clutch, and
center console from a super coupe. My question is,
does the manual T-5 tranny from mustangs bolt right up
or is there any other type that will bolt up so i dont
have to do any unnecessary work. Also will i need a
new drive train with the new transmisson? I've also
been shopping around and cant seem to find any
manufacturers that make a cold air kit for that year.
If you have the answers to one or all of my questions
it would be appreciated if you could help me out.
Thanks PaulSometimes I cannot get the tranny out of park. I have removed the center console and verified that the cable is connect to the shift button and there is no obstruction. I have also removed the brake light switch on the brake pedal and cleaned and replaced it.
Currently I am driving the car without putting the shifter into park.
Where is the problem?After replacing the fuel pump and regulator I still have good pressure and flow, but when the key is turned to the ON position you can hear the fuel pump run anywhere from a couple seconds to 90 seconds depending how long it has been since the car was shut off. During this time the car will not fire. Once the fuel pump quits running, the car will start immediately.alternator bench tested good 14.7v, not charging battery, only 12.5v at battery at idle, and no power assist to brakes, no power to heat AC system. All fusible links look good.Hi
Suddenly, my odometers quit working, both the regular odometer and the trip odometer. The speedometer is working fine. What am I looking at for possible repairs? Is this something that I can do ? Price approximation ? The car has 58, 000 miles and is in great condition.
JimHello, We have a 1994 Ford T-Bird LX w/3.8L. When the engine is started from cold - warm-up is normal and heat would enter the passenger cabin. Last week, all of a sudden, about 10 miles into a trip, simultaneously the temperature gauge would peg high, the check engine light would illuminate, the radiator fan would stop and the heat to the passenger cabin would go cold... A few minute later the temp gauge would fluctuate, the check engine light would go on and off, the heat would not return and the radiator fan would work occassionally but not normally. Fortunatly, or not, this occurs continuously.
Things done so far:
Flushed cooling system and new anti-freeze - vented engine during filling and top-off to rid the air trap.
Tested coolant temperature sensor in cold --> hot water with ohm meter - 57K cold and ~2K hot with nice linear meter readings.
Repaired a hose leak at the overflow tank.
Also, there is single wire sensor on the cabin heater hose from the engine to the firewall - what is this sensor - resembles the temperature gauge sensor at the thermostat.
Thank you for your time and help. - Lee1991 tbird lx when warm and sometimes when cold hesitates and backfires when acceleration over about 1800 rpm. also ide1s at about 1200 rpm and when driving with foot off gas keeps a steady 40 mph or slows just a little. It also backfires when acceration. It is the 5.0 v8.... I have repalce rotor, cap, plugs, plug wires, erg valve. cant find the damn pvc valve or would replace that . any ideas? The car has been sitting for about a year before i bought it . help pleaseWill not start. When you flip the switch nothing happens, but the spedometer and other lights flash. I have installed a new starter, tested the battery and checked the senoloid. It still does the same thing, It has 42, 00 miles.engine starts and stallsI am changing out my 5.0 to an HO 5.0. Being that the timing is different, can the computer be swapped out to get the correct timing or replacing the cam is the only way to get correct timing. Is there anything else I need to swapp out also to be able to take full advantage of the HO performance?We have a 1994 Thunderbird 4.6L engine. We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, MAF, starter, alternator, water pump, spark plugs and spark plug wires. We have changed the MAF twice because of a strange noise. It sounds like a semi trucks horn. It does it whenever it wants to. When we took it back to get it looked at again they told us it was coming from the black plastic tube that sits on top of the motor. The garage called it an Air Inductor tube. We were told that Ford discontinued making those. Have you ever heard of this.I have a 94 T-Bird with 3.8 V6. Around 60-65 mph it starts getting a vibration and at 70+ the rear view mirror vibrates. It's fine vibration not heavy. It doesn't seem to be coming from the wheels. Car has 32000 miles. Any suggestions?MY OXYGEN SENORS PART # P0171 BANK 1 AND P0174 BANK 2 NEED TO BE REPLACE BEFORE I CAN PASS EMMISIONS. I HAVE 4 SENORS ON THE CAR TWO IN FRONT AND 2 IN BACK OF CATIC CONVERTER. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON.
CAN YOU TELL ME WHEN BANK 1 AND BANK 2 ARE??????
P.FORDI have a 3.8L V6 that hesitates or stumbles when the driving load changes such as experienced when the freeway inclines. On level ground the problem does not seem to occur. As the car starts up a grade, it hesitates or stumbles. At first I thought the problem was associated with automatic transmission downshifting or "hunting". Took car to a transmission shop and was told it is not a transmission problem, and to check the ignition (spark plugs and wires) Both have less than 3000 miles on them. The OBD computer is not displaying any fault codes. I had the system scanned today. Gas mileage also seems normal. Any thoughts as to how I can diagnose this problem, test the ignition coils would be deeply appreciated. If this is not an ignition related problem, other possibilities would also be appreciated. Lastly, the problem does not occur during full throttle operation, and I have cruised at 100mph with no evidence of hesitation. Please help.
Thank you in advance,
Gene DotyEngine is 3.8l non supercharged. Has Auto trans. Problem feels like spark plug misfire but it only occurs when car has shifted to 3rd or 4th gear at fairly low speeds and the rpms are under 1500. As soon as I accelerate a little, the engine starts to shake and loose power - feels exactly like a spark plug misfiring. If I step on the gas harder, it stops the problem. If I put the brake on and hold the car still while in gear then I I push the engine hard - it does not misfire at all. This seems to only happen during light acceleration and only in the last two gears and it is random. It is not related to the shifting - I can be cruising along at about 40mpg in 4th gear - no problems the when I slightly step on the gas, it starts misfiring a lot but not steadily. If I let off the gas or press down more (but not enough to cause a downshift) it will clear up.
Engine has 69k miles on it. I just replaced all spark plugs with dual platinums hoping that would fix it - it didn't help at all. The old plugs were not fouled and I saw no evidence of water either. I am suspicious of the coil pack and spark plug wires but it seems like either would have a worse problem under a more stressful load condition instead of the opposite. This only occurs while slightly accelerating and only after the car is going fast enough to shift to the last two gears. I put the car in gear #2 and drove it all over - the problem never occured. It occurs with overdrive on or off also.
Perhaps there is some vacuum leak caused by slightly depressing the gas pedal? I've reseated the plug wires into the coil pack - cleaned it off - checked for vacuum leaks - I can't figure out what is causing this and it's really bugging me. I don't want to buy part after part after part.
Do you have any ideas? Does this engine switch to an alternate engine control mode during slight acceleration? I have a very good OBDII testing unit and it shows no errors at any time - not even with the device hooked up while the problem is actually occuring. I know the tester works as I can create an error condition and it will catch it (like unplugging the O2 sensor.)
Is there a way to force the engine to run a little on the rich side so that I could help figure out if this is a vacuum leak somewhere? Maybe pulling the engine temp sensor connector off temporarity would signal a cold engine and make it run rich?Engine misfires between 20-40 mph when cold and on a slight pull. I can pat the gas pedal and the misfire ceases. This only happens when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up it runs great.Engine misfires between 20-40 mph when cold and on a slight pull. I can pat the gas pedal and the misfire ceases. This only happens when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up it runs great.Car is overheating in idle, fan will not come on to cool the system. Fans were checked and fan motors work when disconnected from the cables.The car is a Turbo Coup. When the engine warms up to a certain temperature- maybe 100 or 120 degrees or so- it misfires for about 2 minutes wheather driving or parked. If accelerating, it is undrivable and I must pull off the road till it warms up a little more. Then it is good until the engine completely cools down again. I replaced the TFI module and oxygen sensor but there was no change. I took it to a Ford dealer and they said it would stall during the diagnostic test and that they wouldn't do any more before replacing all parts that didn't say FORD on them including the TFI, coil and stator assembly. Looking through the old receipts from the former owner, I found that the same dealer had replaced all of these parts for the same complaint in Nov. 1999. This seems to be a common problem because I see ads for cheap Turbo Coupes with the same problem.I am at a loss. To give the quick version of the problem. Several months ago I pulled into a gas station for fuel. When I went to restart the car it was completely dead. Not even any clicking. I tried over and over, then suddenly it starts. Ok that was weird but we're running now so no biggie. A couple months go bye the car is running fine I park it for the evening. The next morning it's completely dead. It had enough juice to make the starter relay click rapidly. I tried to jump it and nothing. I tried byesassing the relay thinking it was bad, nothing. Then out of the blue it finally starts, I have no idea what I accidentaly did. It drove to work fine. When I went to go home it would not start, no juice. I tried a couple more times then it worked. So that night I replaced the battery thinking that was the problem. It worked for a couple days then the same thing happened. Late for work again=0| This time I accidentaly arced the two posts on the starter relay and it cranked the engine. So I replaced the relay and have not had any problems for a few months until yesterday(Monday) Same symptoms before work. Would not jump start. This time arcing the relay wouldn't do it. Later in the evening I tried monkeying with it again. Nothing. I put some jumpers to it from my other car and let it try to build a charge for about 20 min. Then it started. I thought great I can go to work in the morning. Wrong! This morning it was completely dead again. Not even enough juice to lock the doors. There is definatly a draw or something that is causing the issue that I can't find. Have you heard of such problems with this model? Do you have any suggestions of what I can do next? Anything will help. Thank you. Thayne HymasCar overheated, smoke coming from radiator fan. I replaced the fan and cowling, but engine still overheats. Hi amp fuse is OK. It appears that the fan will not turn on. Fan was new.I am looking for a throttle body for my 1989 thunderbird 3.8 v6 multi port FI. This is the base model (not the SC). A high pitched noise is heard when the engine is running. I have replaced the EGR, TPS, IAC, and can not find any vacuum leaks. It runs ok. A mechanic said the throttle body is worn and needs replaced. I have looked on the internet for a new part without any luck. The local dealer does not stock this part anymore. thanks ...BillAre there any good brake upgrade kits available to
convert the (awful) rear drum brakes to disc?
Any other suggestions to improve the marginal brakes
on this car?high idle 3000 cold, 2400 hot, replaced iac valve, did'nt help. not vacum leaks that i hear with a stethascope, any ideas? Help!!It is not getting fire to the spark plugs. Already tested the coils at the parts store. The coils are good. Just won't fire.After I drive a few minutes, the check engine light comes on for less than a minute, goes off for less than a minute, and repeats this over and over until I stop the car. Nothing seems to be wrong, it runs fine. Is this some kind of notice to get emissions checked or what? I just purchased the vehicle, and it has 58, 000 miles on it.
JimThis car doesn't shift reliably and solidly into overdrive until 65-70mph. In addition, the automatic overdrive transmission can't decide if it wants to be in 3rd or overdrive, below the above speed and above about 30mph. This behavior just started, the transmission's shifting was smooth and unnoticable before that. It seems ok when overdrive is locked out ("D" on the selector). V6, 52k miles.
Thanks!Overdrive does not kick in on my 1994 T-Bird, otherwise the trans work fine. The O/D light does not turn on/off when I push the switch. How can I check the O/D switch to determine whether the switch is the problem? Thanks!!I recently installed a new air compressor because the old one locked up. Now the compressor keeps kicking on and off. What could this be caused from? Needless to say the air still dosen't work. I used the vaccumn pump on it thinking this would correct it, but no luck. Please help me....My wife is ill and must have ac when in the car...I have a 90 t-Bird Super Charged, the alt. went out and I had it replaced, but the car never restarted. The fuel pump runs all the time and the built in alarm (Key-door lock only) does not work any more, Just flashes on the dash. It showes no reading on my scanner, just a solid light. Several have looked at it and no one seems to know what is wrong for sure. I don't want to start replacing every thing as it does get expensive. can you help me out on this. My car has been down for 8 months and would love to drive it again... Thanks, JayI used a performace chip ( superchip) in my car for about 3 yrs. A few months ago my car started to mis-fire and i took it in to the dealer.The diagnostic showed a bad PCM(ECU) and a part number was issued. I later purchase the part and install it myself with out the chip. Problem fixed? Sort of. The car wasnt missing anymore but now it had a speed limiter at 80mph. 80mph!!!! My car initially had a limiter at 110mph and that was removed when i purchase the superchip for my car. Well i thought if i replaced the chip on this PCM everything would be fine.That didnt solve anything. The car would not turn on with the chip installed.So i removed it. I have talked to many people in three different dealerships and no one can help me. They all say its the right part and it cant be returned.What can i do. I have invested lots of money on performance parts on my car and i cant even go to the track anymore??? Please help! WestMy engine is the 4.6L. With the AC off and engine at operating temperature, it idles at around 1000rpm in neutral. Is there an adjustment to lower the idle rpm? What malfunction could cause this increase in idle speed?In answer to your question of what my VIN number for my 1989 Thunderbird is,
Bill2.3l t-coupe t-bird overheating when at idle, fan dosen't engage till it's in the red zone, replaced hoses, thermistat, flushed, checked pump, pump has no play in shaft, it's a little better, but not fixed, don't know what else to do.i have a 1987 t- bird 2.3L turbo that is hard to crank and will not idle.i have to keep my foot on the gas to make it run, then it acts like it has no power.also the ac compressor will not kick in.checked voltage at the plug behind glove box and got nothing.When I have the car in (P) it runs smoothly and idles nicely, as soon as I put the car in (D) or (R) it revs and tries to accelerate (rpms jump). I actually have to push the brake down really hard for the car not to jump forward. Any clue at all what could be wrong?!I need to diagnose a power lock/power seat problem with this Super Coupe. Both functions will work, but blow a fuse in about 2 days. I replaced it with a circuit breaker, but it does get very hot, and I was afraid to leave it in. I just leave the seat in one position all the time, but now I am going to sell the vehicle and would like to fix it. ThanksHi, i have a 1994 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6, recently i checked for codes because it was giving a check engine light, the light would come on for at least 20 seconds and it would go away, when it came on the car would not change the way it was operating, it would still work fine. The codes that came up were 335, 326, 327, the 326 and 327 are voltage lower than expected on the PFE, the 335 is voltage lower than expexted on the PFE during KOEO, i decided to change the PFE pressure sensor and now when iam driving while i accelerate the car stalls, when iam at idle it works fine, now this stalling was happening to me before i changed anything on the car its just that it would happen only when i drove the car for at least 3 hours in the daytime, now it does it more, should i change the EGR valve and the EVR solenoid, i have been thrown off since it started to stall more when i changed the PFE pressure sensor. What should i do?Im trying to help a friend with this car. It went dead on him on the road. There was no spark at the plugs so some mechanic friend of his put in an ignition module but from a 1988 Aerostar he was told they were the same. It started at first but surged back and forth now itll start but will die as if no fuel is being delivered unless you pump the gas pedal repeatedly.Hope someone can help.